Fender fr50 resonator guitar

Mahogany with Spruce Top. Finish is very glossy, on the heavy side. I think the flame top would look better in natural spruce but otherwise the finish is beautiful. Made in China. I have owned this for about 6 weeks now.
The "F" holes in the top are the Fender logo F; I would have prefered something more traditional. I had really wanted something with more of a "depression era" look to it, but for the money this played better than the guitars that looked the way I wanted them to.
Wood is plywood but that is appropriate for a resonator. 14 fret, low profile neck, very playable. Action almost as low as my Martin accoustic, seems more suitable for fretting than slide, but I don't play slide so am not sure how that would work. No electronics. It is a spider bridge resonator with wood saddle, which appears to be maple and ebony. I have seen reviews of this guitar saying that it has a plastic saddle, but that has been upgraded apparently.
The cover plate and tailpiece are nicely plated. The tailpiece has felt or some other material attached to the bottom to prevent the string ends rattling on the cover plate.

I play primarily folk, some country. The sound is very nice, but did not seem to have a "resonator" feel to it. I have just upgraded to a Beard resonator, bridge and saddle. You have to upgrade all three as the design of the spider bridge is such that the original saddle which I had assumed I could reuse is far too low. The upgrade took me about 2 hours, half of which was making a masonite template to copy the original saddle profile. The sound is now fantastic. It is smoother and a lot richer than my other resonator, which has a biscuit bridge.

I have not measured this to determine ehxactly where the issue is, but the strings do not track down the center of the neck. I am uncertain if the neck is crooked or the soundhole off center. It is minimal but one of those things that grates a little when you have noticed it. It does not seem to effect playability or sound. The intonation was off when I got it but that can be adjusted by rotating the spider in the sound hole; both the e strings have the correct intonation now and I assume the strings in between do too but have not checked. The original resonator was uneven around the edge, did not sit properly in the sound hole and was too stiff to correct. The original bridge was crooked, did not sit evenly on its feet, and could not be ground down as the feet were quite a bit higher than the center. I broke one foot trying to level it. Replacement parts from Elderly were a fairly substantial investment but BOY do they make a difference. I also had to clean up a fair amount of splitered wood around the sound hole, left over from the router bit, but all in all it is pretty simple and worth the effort.

I think it is going to be very reliable. I am unsure about using the strap button to actually attach a strap. I always attach my guitar straps at the nut rather than the base of the neck, and this may be too heavy an instrument for me to feel confident doing that. The tuning machines seem very high quality, but I assume they may be the same design as they use on one of their electics. The finish is thick enough to pool up where the fretboard meets the top of the guitar. I think it will probably last forever.

No idea. I decided that I wanted to do my own repairs as there is ample information on the internet on resonator set-up and upgrading.

I have been playing for about 35 years. I have 2 Martins and a 1970 vintage Guild 12 string. I also have another inexpensive resonator (Rogue) which I am also trying to upgrade.
If this were stolen I would probably look at other similarly priced spider bridge guitars before I bought another FR 50 as I really don't care for the flashy look; but I do love the sound, the action and the quality of the tuning machines for the price so if I can't match those I would replace this with the same thing.