Guild D-35

I bought this guitar from my Dad in 1984 I think for ??200. He had bought it 1979 or 1980 as a back up for his Gurian jumbo. He hasn't let me have that one yet...
It's a dreadnought with solid mahogany neck, back and sides and sikta spruce top. Finish is gloss overall. Rosewood bridge and fingerboard (no binding) and sealed machine heads. The original white (well, now yellow) bridge pins were changed for ebony with pearloid dots - much nicer although I still have the originals in the case! The case incidentally was bought separately, I don't think Guild included a case at the time (shame!)
I have used it as my ony acoustic until about 1.5 years ago when my wife bought me a Taylor 414CE for my 40th birthday.
I had a Fishman Natural Matrix II pickup installed in 2003 (I didn't want a pre-amp cut into the side).
It's a very plain guitar with simple binding and no binding on the neck (I actually prefer non-bound necks, am I wierd?).
It seems a shame to give this category less than 10 because when you buy an acoustic guitar how many features do you need? Still, what it came with works and suits me so 8 it is!

In the past I have played lots of rock (Pink Floyd, early Genesis and Rush influences amongst others) but nowadays more country and bluegrass. As a flatpicker it is great of course and the sound is very strong - I have tried Cleartone strings on it but although they are perfect on the Taylor I think D'Addarios suit the Guild better. The higher tension of the D'Addarios have also straightened the neck and reduced the 14th fret bump to nearly nothing without having to muck about too much with the truss rod or god forbid a neck reset.
That said, the neck profile is quite chunky and although I am used to it I would like to get a guitar one day with a slimmer neck for the fast soloing.
The tuners aren't the best I've ever tried although as they are the original I am reluctant to change them and they do at least work. To be honest I think the nut needs seeing to which would make the tuning easier and more stable and that is just down to age and the amount it has been played.

Can't comment on factory set-up as I got it when it was 4-5 years old!
The top is nice, a couple of "flaws" which I gather are called bear-claw or something which just add to the character. Given the guitar is nearly 30 years old now the top is a deep yellow/orange colour!
Bridge is well aligned and incidentally a nice little bit of rosewood!

This guitar has been my main acoustic until a couple of years ago and I have toured with it around the UK, Scotland and Germany. Now I live in Sweden and it gets gigged regularly. I think I can say with all honesty that it has stood the test of time: the hardware has lasted well and on the whole, given my less than nice treatment of it, the guitar has survived well. The only reason I take both to gigs is for different styles and in case a string breaks - it's quicker to switch guitars mid-set than to change a string.

Never had to deal with the company although I understand Fender honour original Guild life-time warranties (in the US of course, not relevant for me).

I've been playing for nearly 30 years and had this guitar since I was 18. If it was lost or stolen and the insurance covered it (I think it does) I would probably try to get another one. I saw one recently on the Swedish equivalent of ebay for around 10 000 kr. If a similar model wasn't available I would consider the new Caifornia made equivalent - but not Korean (nothing against Korean made guitars in principle, but if I lost/damaged a US built guitar I want it replaced with a US-built guitar!).
I love the fact that it has been with me all these years, sentimental git that I am. I wish it had a slimmer neck and that I had taken better care of the finish but I am never getting rid of it.

Just received my 1978 D-35 2 days ago. Sounds like solid spruce top, looks like mahogany back/sides. Hard to tell, as someone painted the whole thing black satin. Built-in passive under the saddle pickup that works fine. Guild headstock, Guild label, Guild 'brand' on the inside beam, but...mine has a Pegasus horse on the headstock- no Guild logo. ??? Help, I don't know why! It's a big, rather heavy dreadnaught.

Lovely, serious, deep, woody tone. Like having a conversation with a well-read philosopher, as opposed to, say, a loud, chatty person. No other guitars sound like the older Guilds- certainly not the newer overseas Guilds. Meaningless to compare everything to a M. or a G., like comparing all synths to a Moog.

Ummm, well, along with having it painted 100% black at some point (which actually looks great,) the neck was serously cracked/broken near the nut. Big, long, v-shaped 8" deep crack. Out came the glue, and it has held wonderfully. The action is just perfect, so low that I am astonished every time I play the guitar.

Frightfully solid feeling, dense woods. The neck seems to weigh more than many complete guitars. No soundhole caving in, or bridge pulling up- which happens all the time- perfectly flat. This makes me happy.

N/a

A birthday present to myself for 140.00. Not quite the boom of my Yairi dy-45 (few do,) but more personal, a greater intimacy in the sounds it produces. Seems like one of the great recording guitars, and I plan on using it for that.

Guild D-35, built October 1971. Mahogany back and sides, spruce top. This particular top has quite a bit of "bear claw" in it. These days bear claw is exotic and companies charge extra for it. In 1971 it was considered borderline defective. Open back tuners, 3 on a plate. These are original; they still work fine so I'm not tempted to change them. Very fast neck with "flat heel" (as compared to the typical Martin heel which has more of a spine to it). Comparable woods to Martin D-18 but I've found it is just slightly bigger that a Martin D size (won't fit into my Martin D-18's case). Rosewood fingerboard and bridge. Ivory saddle and nut. Came with cheaper semi-hard case which I later upgraded to a hard early 70s Guild hard case. This guitar is plain, functional, and roadworthy. Great value.

I came of age as a player when everyone had a dreadnought. So I learned to play everything on a D, even though now players have their jumbo, their 00 fingerstyle guitar, etc. The sound is the best part of this guitar (seems like an obvious reason to own a guitar). But for some players, a brand or certain ornamentation or endorsement is the main attraction. I rate this sound as good as any dreadnought I've played. Very clear definition of chords. Excellent balance of treble and bass. Has that complexity of a fine guitar. Plenty of power when needed (it has been called a banjo killer). Records extremely well. I have used it on many albums. I play jazz, ethnic and rockabilly. I have a fishman pickup with a preamp installed in this. I originally got the guitar because I didn't want to cut into my 1959 Martin D-18.

One of the criticisms of Guilds is that a given model would vary in quality from year to year. (Martin is known for its consistency) Maybe there was some inconsistency when the factory was relocated each time, but this guitar has no manufacturing defects I've been able to notice in the 20 years I've owned it. The construction is meticulous. The action plays great. This guitar is now 33 years old. I've had it refretted two times in 20 years (shows I've played it) and it is as nice now as when I got it.

Let me put it this way: I've toured Europe and the US with this guitar since I got it. Never a problem. I sometimes wonder about the allegedly "cheap" tuners, but they still work fine. Added a strap button myself. Give it a 9 only regarding the tuners question.

NA

My history as a player goes back into the late 1950s. I sat in the mud at Woodstock in 1969. To me, Guilds have a certain vibe of kickass affordability that is really appealing. I don't want to gussy mine up with "better" tuners, brass saddles, etc. I wouldn't part with it or my Martin D-18. They each fill a specific function in my bag of guitar tricks.

This is a solid top guitar from the late 1960s. It's very basic, with little trim other than the binding- not unlike a Martin D-18.

Sound is very balanced, very rounded; doesn't have the individual striong definition I hear in a good Martin, but it beats most newer guitars. Good rhythm sound with 12s or 13s.

NO discernable flaws. A simple, exceedingly well made guitar. The neck angle is getting a bit much and I suspect this will need a reset in 5-10 years.

It's lasted at least 30 and probably more; I suspect it;s good for a centuiry at least.

I've been playing for 30+ years and have 9 guitars, including four acoustics. The D-35 has been my favorite for many years, although I suppose if I lost it I'd be seriously interested in a Martin.

1975 20 frets
as far as woods i wont go by the current spects sheets( they may have changed since then) Im gonna look at the guitar and give you my best guess, which will be prettty acurate.
spruce top - a little more orange colored just from being old
Sides, back and neck - Mohogany although there is a finish on it a little darker I think they wanted to make it look like it was rosewood.
bridge and fretboard - rosewood( i havent seen too many rosewood fingerboards striped as much as this one either)
Tuners - haven't ever seen these tuners before. Guild now uses Grovers and for good reason I think im gonna buy a set and put them on.
It has wood Binding instead of plastic.
As far as features it has the basics nothing fancy.
sold with a non-original hard case that didnt fit well at all. Im in the process or reduing the interior towels werent enough.

This guitar suits my musical style very well. This guitar is the best one ive hears in its price range. When I was looking for a guitar all the ones I wanted were well over a thousand. THis one was used and cheaper and sounded good to me. My brother says this is the best sounding guitar he's ever played, but I like Guild Jumbos better, but thats like comparing apple t ooranges. This is a pretty versatile guitar. I use it for everything from bluegrass circles to acoustic rock. I am Into the 70's folk revivalist singer songwriters, and I think it has a great tone for that. It has a very full sound. Not overly bassy, even though sometimes I wish it was(again i like jumbos) and not to teangy. I think the upper harmonics come across very nicely. The guitar isnt as bright as some people like(its mahogany) but i like it I think its very full, althogh I played a new D-35 and didnt like it. Mine is old and I love the sound older guitars. I had the saddle replaced with compensated bone saddle, and it sounds even better. Im giving mine a ten but remember if you are buyin it new I would rate it that good.

When I saw this guitar at the shop I though I would never have bought it. I always visually inspect a guitar before I strum it. It seemed to be sloppily thrown together. Inside the guitar there was excess glue and wood shavings. THer was also a discoloration around all the bracing. There were four splotches of clear glue? or possibly drips from the finishing process One is half the diameter of one of the bridge pins. The other three are the diameter of the d string. Ther is also a small not in the top. The color isnt any darker like in most nots, but the grain raises in a hump about 1/8 an inch. It isn't bookmatched that good either. The not is only on one side, and one side is darker than the other on the lower bout. The neck's finish is a little sticky. In my opinion guild puts to much finish on there necks. It is chipping off on the side of the fretboard.
The only thing ive played with lower action that didnt buzz was a Taylor and its not fair to compare guitars when one costs five times more. The action was great, however the saddle is down pretty low. If I want to take any more off I will need to remove some wood from the bridge. Action at the nut is perfect and the neck is strait. I wont bother putting in a rating for a this category. Heres my ratings.
Cosmetics - Bad
Action - Great

There are dings nad scratches all over. Someone must have gigged with this. The top has raised slightly(typical of older guitars.) The rosette has a slight gap beteen it and the top(I think due to the top raising, but could have been a routing error. I can slide a piece of paper in, but not a buisness card, so im not worried. Between the soundhole and the bridge the finish is coming of a little. One thing I did like was the fact there was a strap button where the neck meets the body. I dislike using the headstock to mount the strap; it just feels funny. I would gig without a backup. The finish behind the neck had to be buffed. After five minutes of playing I would have to wipe it off with my shirt, and when all my shirts started getting stained I decided to do sometehing. Its still not perfect. When I learn to refinish instruments the first thing I do is redo the neck. I love Guild guitars, but they get rally laquer happy on thier necks. The only other problem I had is that the binind around the waist started pulling up. Glued it back down, problem solved. I think this guitar has been through alot, but it's built like a tank. This guitar gets played for hourse everyday. I really dont play my others after I bought this. It's name is Ann. And yes, I talk to it.

I have never had to deal with the Guild Company.

This guitar would never get lost and hopefully I could recover it if its stolen, because Ive glued on a label Identifying me as the owner. Ive been playing for six years. Im still in college. I started out in a high school punk-rock band. Playing a Fender Squier trough a Peavy 112 Combo. Then upgraded to a used Les Paul DC standard and a Crate Blue Voodoo Half stack. I also played In the high school's Jazz band Using a Guild Archtop guitar. I also have an Oscar Schmitt All mohogany acoustic.($25 My campfire guitar) I also have a kentucky "A-style" Mandolin.
If this guitar were lost or stolen I couldnt replace it. But in theory if I could I would. This guitar is a great value. I will probably never again buy another new guitar. Especially in acoustics used is the way to go. They are cheap and can sound much better. If im ever rich(I will never be) I will buy nice new guitars, and throw them in the closet with a humidifier so my children or grandchildren can have new guitars with an old guitar sound.

The specific guitar I am reviewing is a 1968 (within the first 1000 made) Guild D-35's. It is actually my dad's guitar, but I've played it over the years more than my own!

First off, I should state whatever bias I may have in a good acoustic. I am not a big Martin fan, and the more of them I play, the less inclined to buy one I am. I also do not prefer Taylors much either, although I do find their builds to be adequate, their necks are much better, and all in all they are simply a better build, when I pick one up, they never seem to have the sound I am looking for no matter what I play or how I choose to do so. I have a friend who bought a Taylor, and he was playing it, I heard it and I'm thinking "WOW! That's the tone I want!" But when I play it, it never seems to sound as good. Maybe part of it is where I was standing, or maybe part of it is that my style, as versitile as I am on acoustic is still drastically different than his! I am not a major rosewood (body) fan either - I prefer the brightness and sustain of say maple or mahogany (on a well made guitar of course) over rosewood bodies any day! Getting that out of the way, the body is mahogany and the fretboard and bridge are made from rosewood. The only downfall was that the original tuners which are long gone as of now, were cheap strip tuners (common for back then). The tuners that my father had put on, I am not sure what they are but they are very good except the high E you have to keep screwing the peg back in so it doesn't slip.

One side effect of taking the action down was that the bass is not very loud on this guitar, as it used to be VERY loud. This is not necessarily a bad thing though, as it delivers solid bass which you can tell is there, just not too loud and clear highs. I generally prefer both light gauge strings or a medium light hybrid set (12-56) if I want more bass over mediums for the balance of tone. I have not found a Martin D-18 (a "should be" comprable Martin), or any Martin for that matter that can compare to the sound of this D-35 (there were some that weren't as nice), and while I have played Gibsons that top it, they cost at least twice the price and many do not sound as nice!

The guitar originally came with an extremely high bridge giving it high action, which has since been taken town considerably. Over the years, being the main practice guitar for my father for 30 years, and myself for some time now, the finish has taken a beating, but like other Guild's from the time, the finish on the side has turned bright red, even more so than others.

All in all, very few acoustics do play as nice as this one does and still maintains a nice tone!

It's held up with only nicks in the finish since 1968, the only problem is the strap peg needs to be glued and it needs new end pegs to hold the strings in, as they have become quite worn. Nothing major that can't be replaced though.

N/A

I myself hae been playing for near 14 years now, own a G&L strat which is utterly horrible (not a strat fan, but I would take a mex for this anyday), 1995 Gibson Les Paul Classic which has the mis-sized fret problem that was fixed since, and a Gibson LG-3, which was made somewhere in the late 40s or early 50s which is in perfect condition and would be quite the collectable had I not replaced the tuners (which were already replaced once before with some cheap tuners similiar to the ones that came on the late 60's D-35's) and have access to my father's collection which also includes an F-20 from 1961 and a1981 F-50 (which of all the guitars, custom handmade or stock I have played is the best!)

While it is not the best of my selection, I would recommend a D-35 up until the mid-late 80s when Guild took a large fall, for someone who is a serious musician, or someone who is looking for the bang for the buck! The going rate for these old Guild guitars is already a steal at the book price, but quite often I see old Guild guitars in perfect condition being sold for no more than $600 or less! You can't beat that! Even if you prefer the more expensive Martins or Taylors, I'm sure no one will argue that you get more for your money with used Guilds than say Martin, which $600 will buy you a guitar made of plywood.

20xxxx Serial # puts my D-35 in the '79 range. Tobacco burst finish, tortoise pieck guard, Guild tuners (couple of loose wood screws). Made in USA.

Paid $300 at a Pawn Shop in Manassas, VA w/ hardcase. A treasure at that price!!!!

Spruce, Rosewood. Clean frets. Finish chipped on lower top, no wood damage. Simple Guild gold logo on headstock

Sounds almost just like an early 70's Martin 35 I just played, a little more bright perhaps.
Rate the sound at a 9, super loud with that seasoned sound board and X bracing.

Super nice action, could be lowered just a hair. Neck is totally straight and true.

Looks pretty solid though I treat it with the respect it deserves. I don't play out, just jam with friends.

Rate overall at 9
Looks great, sounds great, is 20 years old, vintage flavor.
Like an older martin ans can't be touched for this kind of price.

Made in 1975, Wesbury RI
Bought new in Arlington, VA for $300 including hard case. (What a deal!)
Solid spruce top, solid mahogany sides and back. Built like a battleship.
I had an aftermarket Fishman pickup and preamp put in, 1992. Didn't affect the unplugged tone.
Original tuners were the sealed Guild type that I've never seen on any other guitar, the ones with the wierd shaped buttons. Does anyone know who made them? I've since replaced them with Grovers, they swapped right out with no need to drill new holes.

The original tone was very dark and heavy, the trebles were a bit muddy. After 1.5 years I loaned it to the wrong friend for a night and had to send it back to the factory for refinishing. It came back sounding much better, the refinishing ended up thinning the top and it sounded brighter, more lively, still had the big bottom and strong midrange but with more treble, the treble is still overshadowed by the mid and bass. It's a cannon, makes a very big impression when played live but doesn't record very well, the treble fades away when recorded. It sounds for open tunings. It is also a backup to my 314CE.

The fundamental structure is solid after 26 years, the finish on the edge of the neck has peeled away from reaction with the oils on my hands, the bridge has had to be reglued twice, no loose braces or cracks. In college I strapped it crossways to my motorcycle for many trips and it held up well (the case got beat up, but thats why you invest in a good case!).

Solid as a rock. The bridge has been reglued twice, I understand that this is typical of Guild flattops, that the factory used to leave a bit of unglued edge around the bridge to make a nice clean appearance. No loose braces or cracks in all these years

I've sent it back to Guild twice and had good response from them and turnaround of about two weeks.

I've been playing for 33 years, I also have a Taylor 314CE, various sound equipment. I love the tone of it, more punch and guts than my Taylor, good for jazz, blues and open tuning, not as well balanced or sweet as the Taylor. Would I get it again? When I bought it, it was the most guitar for the least money, most bang for the buck that I could find. Nowadays there are alot more options in the middle between cheap and C.F. Martin. On the whole I guess I'd get it again. I still like the tone of it and there is something about the characteristic tone of a Guild that I haven't found in any other maker. Many call them 'the poor mans Gibson' but I hear alot in Guilds that make them readily identifiable and and distinctive.

I actually have two D-35's; one made about 1973 and one made in 1976.
They are very similar, but the necks are different shapes, and the
wood in one is quite a bit better-looking that in the other. The
tuners on both have been replaced with Grovers. The older guitar has
been beat to hell over the years; it has several back cracks, at least
two top cracks, and one long side crack. The neck of the older one
also has a knot in the wood about the eighth fret! The D-35 is a plain model with mahogany sides, back and neck and a spruce top. They
both came with Guild hardshell cases.

I play a lot of gospel and finger-style songs, with the occasional
foray into blues. I keep the older guitar tuned to open G and the
newer one tuned to open D. The '73 is very loud (even with a very
low saddle), the '76 is more sweet in sound, with a more balanced
midrange. I have several acoustics and having these around enables
me to avoid retuning for open tuning songs. The necks feel completely
different; the '73 is very flat in cross-section, the '76 is more
veed. Both can be forced with a flat-pick if that is what you want.
The '73 will really bellow if you dig into it.

Both these guitars are nicely made, with no fit or finish flaws(other
than that knot in the neck!). All the flaws there are I put there with careless handling. The actions are set up a little higher than some like them; I find a higher action to sound a little better. The
original Guild tuners on both guitars weren't worth the pot metal they
were made from. I threw them away and put on some Grovers.

I've beat the old guitar to death in bars and at parties for years and
it's still going strong. I find it hard to imagine a guitar that's
had a harder life than this one. It probably could use a neck reset
and the cracks should all be cleated and the neck refretted again (it
was done once, about ten years ago). The newer one I've been a little
easier on, but it's built like a tank as well.

Never dealt with Guild.

I have been playing for about 35 years. I own several acoustic
guitars, including an old Epiphone archtop, a Larrivee OM, and an old
Washburn parlor from about 1900. I have certainly got my money's
worth out of these Guilds. I would buy another one if one of these
were ever stolen. They are not "Grail" type instruments; but for
everyday playing and partying they can't be beat for the price. You
can still pick them up from dealers for 600-700 USD! I think Elderly
has two right now. They sound good and hold up great!

This is a update of my previous review
Solid spruce and mohogany, no fretboard binding, nice neck

i like bluegrass and old folk
it sounds incredibly brilliant

i bought it used, but it was in great shape, and as these seem to be tough guitars, and hard to not love, i'd asume many are in great shape.

as solid as a solid wood acoustic could be

it saved me a lot of money, compared to similar sounding guitars, ie martin, and of course the 30 years of aging make the wood nicer sounding than the newer guilds, although the new ones i tried were pretty nice too, and also cheaper than martins.