Guild D-4 NT

Mid 90s Guild D4-NT made in the US, satin finish dreadnaught, chrome Grover tuners (I believe), fairly chunky neck, rosewood fretboard, skinny frets, Guild sticker on headstock, neck joins body at 14th fret, dot inlays, nothing very fancy except for the handsome arched back. I believe that the back is laminated.
Beat up hardshell case but the guitar itself is in really nice condition.
I give it an 8 as it's pretty much a plain jane guitar, looks-wise.

Had a nice enough sound when I first got it. See the following section for a little more information.
I didn't like the action one iota. See below.
The 10 rating is for how the guitar is now.

Initially, I wasn't too happy with this guitar. High action, kind of a Gretsch-like neck (chunky and slow), little big and bulky but decent sound.
Did stay in tune really well, though.
The frets were notched and the fretboard was really dirty feeling so I followed the instructions on Gibson's web site for fret and fretboard reconditioning (400 Grit, 600 Grit, 0000 Steel Wool, Jeweler's polish, lemon oil) which helped matters tremendously. Fretboard now feels better than a new guitar ever does.
The action was still way too high for me (I'm an electric guy for decades) SO I purchased a bone saddle blank, copied the profile and then kept filing away at the base of the saddle.
After about 5 attempts, I've managed to get the action as low as an ES-335 (YAY!) and the sustain is greatly improved.
Truss rod adjustments got the neck dead straight. Surprising and a bit nerve wracking how much you have to crank on an acoustic's truss rod.
No buzzing anywhere but I'm sure that I degraded the sound quality by using XL strings. Sure can bend them a lot easier, though!
Now I can play it like an electric guitar which is what I wanted. A cutaway would be nice but you can't have everything!
I'd recommend the bone saddle modification be done to any acoustic guitar. All you need is a hacksaw, fine tip magic marker, pair of angled pliers and a lot of trial and error. Put masking tape on the guitar body before trying to pull out the saddle (from the right hand side) just to be safe.
It really turned an average guitar into an exceptional instrument. This one is a keeper!

This guitar has been around for 13 years or so and looks and sounds like new. Judging by the notching in the first 5 frets, this was played quite a bit. I think that it will withstand live playing.
The finish has a darkened section from the previous owner's arm so guess that the finish will wear away with time but what won't?
Strap buttons are good sized so no danger of it falling off and all you need to carry with you is a spare set of strings.
I give it a 9 due to the satin finish.

Never dealt with them, no idea.

I've been playing electric for 30 years plus, this is the first acoustic that I've ever purchased for myself!
I have lots of Gibson electrics (13, I think) and have fallen in love with this old Guild.
Now that I made a saddle and took care of the frets and fretboard, I love the action and feel of the neck - it has a very solid feel which fits my large hands to perfection. For those electric guys reading this, picture inbetween a 59 and 60 ES-335 neck. Not as fat as the 59 (thank goodness), thicker than the 60s neck.
We have another Guild chinese jobber in the house (GAD-50), this one kicks it's *** in every category that matters.
When I was looking for an acoustic it was between Guild, Martin and Gibson; the lower priced Martins don't seem to be quite up to snuff, I can't justify spending $1500 on a mid-priced Martin as I'll never be that wonderful on an acoustic and the Gibsons are idiotically overpriced.
I chose Guild for their reputation and price and am not disappointed in the least.
I would buy another one of these in a second.
Maybe a Guild with a cutaway...

I usually use fairly heavy strings and had problems with the sound. With heavier string (Gibson Master Builts) the bass is dull and overpowering. I switched strings (DR's and lighter .11-.50) and the whole guitar came alive. Tone from high to low is great and its midrange (which I look for) is right on. I play a variety of music and require a versitile guitar. Most of the time that means a neutral tone guitar where I play with the eq and use effects (chorus, phasing, delay) to pull it off, but this guitar has character and fits into every style I play. It gives me the Martin/Gibson/Taylor/Breedlove type tones wrapped up into an inexpensive guitar.

Plugged in it has a very rich and beautiful sound. I exclusively go straight into the board, no amp (unless Its for monitoring). It requires no eq even though it is a passive system without any onboard controls.

I acquired the guitar used, its a mid-90s model. The action is low, but as hard as I play, it does not buzz. There are no flaws that I could say are from the factory. When I got it, one of the top's X-braces was broken and since th previous owner didn't loosen strings, there is a crack on the top at the treble sid of the bridge. But the top is solid since the repair. There was a little belt rash on the back, but nothing that can't be sanded out with light sandpaper.

Everything is pretty solid. The broken brace was someone falling on the guitar. Surprising that the fall didn't collapse the top. Very sturdy. Hardware is top-notch.

No experience here.

I have been playing for 32 years. I prefer electric guitar over all and play Hamer, Ovations and Fender electrics, Through a Fender Super 60 amp and a variety of effects and processors. I play Alvarez, Martin, Godin, Fender and other acoustics. But this Guild is my main performance guitar. I'm actually going to sell the Alvarez. I would replace the D4 NT. In terms of use and looks, I love it. I love its tone, and would put it up against almost all other guitars, expecially for the price value it possesses. I do with it had a preamp with eq and volume for greater amplified control on stage and a cutaway.

Already well covered, very simple but attractive design. Mahogany back and sides, spruce top, rosewood fretboard, black binding, tortoise pich guard, and great Grover tuners. Matte finish. The Guild head decal is the only cheesy point.

A surprising and full sound with rich harmonics and sustain. I never expected this given its original price and spartan look. With Elixir lights it provices a good low end as well as clear highs. It is not overly 'mid-rangy', but well balanced.

I was really lucky to find this in a pawn shop, in a very dusty state and with ancient strings (but with only a few minor dings). It had been played but not abused. After a light cleaning and with new strings it looks great, with a perfectly matched top. The action is low, the neck is on the thin side but very comfortable, and it plays easily.

It seems sturdy and has weathered 11 years without any cracks, warps, or splits.

Have not had to contact the company.

A fantastic guitar for the money. I have played off and on for too many years and also play a Martin D-35 and Bourgeois Vintage D, and purchased this as a banger. I also checked the Harmony-Central reviews before buying, and it has more than lived up to expectations. Would I buy another? Perhaps if I found one with the same sound and similar, or even higher price. What a nice surprise, and wonderful to find a guitar from humble beginnings that can hold its own with others of more storied pedigree.

Guild D4 NT HR, 1998, made in Rhode Island, USA. I bought this in 1998 as well and I still have it 2006. Solid spruce top, unfinished (satin?), dreadnaught. No electronics. Neck is rosewood.

This guitar is amazing! I was looking for a good sounding guitar but not expensive, cause it was going to be my first guitar. I'd been playing an old classical guitar to learn on and by now I needed my own. When I picked this one up,I knew I had to buy it. It sounds better than any guitars twice its price. It has a warm mellow sound with long sustain. When I replaced the saddle with a bone saddle, the luthier was very impressed with the sound. The overtones on this guitar are crazy! You can really appreciate the tone of each single string played. The guitar is quiet. So I put in a LR Baggs iBeam pickup (from the advice of the luthier) and, oh my goodness, the sound is heavenly. The iBeam has a reputation for reproducing the actual quality of the guitar, and I think it is a perfect match for my Guild. I would not put an iBeam in any other guitar than this one which has such rich sounds to hear that its like it was mic'd. This guitar is definitely a keeper for me. I paid $800 Canadian dollars for this (which was a discount already from the "list price" of $1200).
The only thing is that is may not be that great for strumming with a band because the sound is so rich, the clarity is not there to really stand out in a full band setting. But then again, who really needs to appreciate the rich sound with all the other instruments playing? (I usually just use a cheaper guitar with more clarity when I play with a band). The iBeam with the Guild D4 NT HR also can create feedback because it is so sensitive. So I put a soundhole cover with I plug it in (I find the those humidifier soundhole covers works best with the plastic and sponge ie. Kyser Lifeguard. The hard rubber soundhole feedback busters actually makes no difference to the feedback). If the action is not correct, you can get some buzzing from the fingerboard if you do not press hard enough. On my guitar, the range on which you can adjust the action is somewhat limited. You can't lower the action too much before you get buzzing. But its low enough for my fingers (I'm the kind of person who likes it low, I nearly gave up guitar originally because it hurt my fingers).

The factory setup was pretty good. I recommend replacing the saddle with a bone saddle and you get a more brilliant sound. The guitar is well crafted. Sturdy, heavy though. I can still smell the fresh wood through the soundhole and it augments the playing experience.

I actually placed my guitar in my dorm room over the 2 week Christmas holidays and they turned off the heating (I'm from Toronto). My guitar froze and the neck warped. I was so sad when I came back, the strings were buzzing everywhere. I had to do some serious rehydration (probably overhydrated) and I brought it to a luthier who nursed it back to health (this was the time he replaced the bridge with a bone saddle, probably raised it a little bit). But now its back in excellent condition. I can't believe the guitar came back to life, its that robust. I now keep it well hydrated with a soundhole humidier and another Dampit humidifier in the case. I keep it in the case when not played. And of course keep it at room temperature always. The unfinished wood really needs the humidity cause it really sucks it in. The wood also nicks easily so I'm pretty careful with it (don't want to bang it around.) But it kinda gives it the worn loved look. So far, nothing has come loose or broken.

Supposedly lifetime warranty. But since Fender bought it, I don't know. I've never took it to warranty. When I needed it fixed, I brought it to a guy who makes his own guitars and is also an authorized Taylor and Martin repair person in Toronto.

I've been playing since highschool, so for about 10 years. The guitar has a roundback so the string nuts on the bridge can touch the top cover of guitar cases. I ended buying an SKB case for it so the foam molded to the body better.
If it was lost or stolen I would definitely try to find another Guild, made in Rhode Island. I actually got my brother a finished top Guild D4 cause I like it so much.
Luxurious sound (so many different overtones, texture is superb). Some may consider it a little mushy sound when strumming. Probably not the guitar you want if you want a bright clear sound but less texture (go for a Taylor then). The unfinished top makes the sound more richer somehow compared to my brother's finished top. Great for solos, or quieter music. For rock music, I play my brother's finished Guild D4 (with the LR Baggs Element pickup) which sounds great (cleaner brighter sound, not mushy with strumming).

Made in 1993 in Westerly, Rhode Island.
Standard 20 fret dreadnought with no electronics. Solid spruce top, mahogany back, satin finish. Grover tuners that stay where you put them. Pick it up weeks later and it is still in tune. The neck is standard width but very thin and extremely comfortable to play. Chords sound clear and in tune no matter where on the neck you play - and I play a lot with a capo anywhere from the 2nd to the 6th fret. Overall this guitar looks very plain - no fancy inlay (even the logo on the headstock is stenciled on.) Guitars that cost half as much look twice as nice. But the important thing about this guitar is not about how it looks.

I am a strummer, not a picker. I play and sing pop/rock/folk and this guitar is perfect for performing. When I first bought it, it clearly sounded better than the low-end Yamaha I was playing at the time, but it wasn't great. I had always heard that guitars "open-up" after years of playing but this one didn't seem significantly better until this year and then al of a sudden WOW! It doesn't sound like the guitar I bought. It somehow developed a deep rich tone with excellant clarity and wonderful sustain. I have a Yamaha FG-340 that I have had a lot of work done on (bone saddle, bridge reworked etc. and the Guild is so far superior it isn't a contest. Also have an Ibanez AW100 which has extraordinay sustain (especially for a cheap guitar) but can't touch the Guild for depth or playability.

The set-up was so good that I haven't touched it in 12 years. The action is absolutely perfect (for me) at a smidgen below 1/8th inch at the 12th fret. You can play this guitar a long time with no fatigue.
I have since learned that the bridge pin holes were drilled just slightly off center so I can't play with Elixir strings as the low E strings will slide off the edge of the fret. I never had that problem before I tried Elixirs and haven't had the problem once I took them off and went back to Martin medium guage phosphor bronze. I love the sound of the Martin strings (which I tune down so that the A string is tuned to G, etc.) I'm not happy to have learned about this flaw, but it really has no practical impact.

This guitar is very solid and reliable. You can perform with it without any worry and without needing a back-up.
The finish is satin but over time the back has developed a shine from the friction of my shirt. Everything else is rock-solid.

Never tried to contact them.

I have been playing for 35 years. I also have a Yamaha FG-340, an Ibanez AW100, a Yamaha beater that I bought used without any model #, plus a couple of Harmony parlor-size guitars.
I am very happy that I bought this guitar and would definitely buy it again. If it were lost, or stolen, I would get another one on eBay so long as it was made in Rhode Island. When I first bought it, I didn't go for a more expensive model solely because of the price. But now I can't imagine that anything costing even twice as much would sound any better. Also, as I said, it is extremely easy to play and makes me sound better than I am.

1997 20 fret D-4 (Dreadnought) NT w/ a solid spruce top w/ a satin finish and mahogany back and sides. The neck is also mahogany w/ a rosewood fingerboard. Grover tuners. There is nothing fancy about this guitar, but it is very nice looking, especially after the top "soils" somewhat from regular use. It looks used but not abused. just the way a "loved" guitar should look. If you want inlays of pearl and abalone and a fancy binding then this isn't your guitar, but if it's got six strings and a soundhole, so what more do you need in terms of features?

This guitar sounds very nice, especially after I had a bone saddle put on it. It originally had a very full sound, but has since (after the saddle) evened out beautifully w/ impressive sustain. It still isn't overly bright though. For what I paid for it I am very happy with the sound.

I bought this guitar from a pawn shop, so I was very scrutinizing before I purchased it, going into the store and playing the guitar three times before laying down the cash. The action is about average for an acoustic, but higher than my Martin. If you're barring down past the 7th fret you really have to press hard to get a clean sound. Someone else here also mentioned thin frets, which I never thought about but in relation to my other guitar are substantially thinner. If I don't press down very close to the fret I have gotten some buzzing. This guitar is certainly going to force me to become more precise, whereas the Martin let me "cheat" a little. This guitar also didn't have the back binding when I bought it, but didn't affect how it sounded or how it played. I don't know if that's something common to this model or just a one-time thing w/ mine. Like I mentioned above, I dig the satin finish. Very pleasant to the eye.

I don't see myself having any problems with this guitar. Like any guitar, keep it in its case when you're not playing it, keep it properly humidfied, and you should be all good.

I'm sure the warranty is long gone on this baby, especially since Guild has changed hands and is now Fender. I haven't heard great things about Fender's customer support, but I can't say much because I haven't had to deal with them.

I've been playing for about 5 years now. I'm very pleased with this guitar. Last year I passed on nearly-new Tacoma DM9 for $399 (retails for $800) and had been kicking myself until I stumbled across this Guild. Other than the laminated back, it is nearly identical construction-wise to the Tacoma, which is one of the nicer guitars I'd ever played. Since this guitar is discontinued I probably wouldn't go searching for another one if this one were damaged or god-forbid stolen, but for what I paid for it and how good it sounds, I'm really psyched with the D-4.

I recently purchased a 95 model of this guitar and absolutley love it. In my opinion, it is one of the best sounding guitars that I have ever owned. It is not a flashy guitar, but it has a great feeling neck and good grover tuners, which hold tune very well. I play everything from praise and worship music for church to blue grass and this guitar meets all my needs.

in my opinion I could not ask for a better sounding guitar, well I guess I could but there wouldn't be much point in it. i mean it when I say that it is one of best sounding guitars I ahve played, and i have played my share of them. Everything from Taylors to Martins, and I put this up there with the best. It doesn't bring out may'be as much volume as some, but I just love it's tone.

I bought this guitar used and it is it was made in 1995, so i couldn't tell you too much about it's set up at the factory. I will say that the way I got it, it has a great feel to it. The strings are right there on the neck, but don't rattle when I use my capo on high frets. It is not a flashy guitar, and it has a two or three small nicks in it, but the person who had it before me took really good care of it. And besides, those nicks don't hurt the sound any.

This is a 7 year old guitar and is still in wonderful shape. With it's good finish and good tuners I am sure that it will last for years to come and that when I am playing live that I when am playing live whether it be in church or whether it be at a concert, I will play this guitar with confidence.

I have been playing for about 3 or 4 years, and I have a fender strat and an Alvarez acoustic which my dad had for 26 years, and this Guild is still my favorite guitar to play. I am sure that anyone who buys this model will be satisified with it. Th only thing that I would do to it would be to put good electronics in it.

I think my Guild is a 2001 model D-4. It was Made in America. It a dreadnaught with a slightly arched back. It's a solid top with a stain finish. I think its made of mahagony. It has Guild (Grover) tuners on it which are great. It a basic dreadnaught without a lot of frills, but I like it that way. I love the tourtise pickguard.

Its got a sweet sound which is fairly full. I wouldn't say its loud but has a more balanced sound. All in all a great sounding guitar. The best sounding guitar under $1000 that I tried in the whole store. For the price it was definetly a great steal.

The original set-up seems fine. No problems with the guitar as of now. Will probably have to make sure I keep it up since it has a satin finish. But everything looked to be good.

Seems like this guitar was made well and will last a very long time. But since I just bought it recently only time will really tell. But by looking at it I think it will be rock solid in years to come. Its definitely going to be my giging guitar.

Its a Guild and haven't had to deal with repairing it, but I know the fender repair guy and he seems good. Will take it to him if it needs any repairs. Not sure what the warranty is?

I also own a Fender Mexi Strat. If I lost this guitar I would seriously cry, and then have to go a buy another Guild acoustic. I love this guitar and it might look very simple/basic but all that matter to me is that it sounds like straight butter. For the price I far better than any other guitar out there. I know they stopped making these so if you see one you have best snatch it up. One last note, Guilds rule!

My Guild D4-NT is a '97 model. I bought it used, but it is still in mint condition. Usual specs: solid spruce top, laminate arched back, rosewood fingerboard and bridge, grover tuners, satin finish, bone saddle and nut. Beautifully thin neck, it's almost like playing my strat.

As a Country singer/songwriter, I was looking for an acoustic to write with and to play solo jobs, and she fits the bill perfectly. I passed on a Martin D15 to get her after strumming a few chords. The sound is rich and full with the emphasis on midrange tones. I've read a few reviews where they act like this is a bad thing, but for me she is perfect.

Bought her used, so I couldn't say about the factory setup. When I got it, all I had to do was tweak the neck and it played like a dream. Whoever had it before me took really good care of her. There are a couple of superficial nicks (which only give her character)and the barroom smoke is starting to darken the spruce top. Was bookmatched perfectly, you can't even see a line.

I've had her for a year now and no problems. I was worried about the satin finish at first, but there was no need. She's been all over the country and still going strong. I had to add a neck strap button and put in a Rare Earth single coil pickup. I depend on it and gig with it every night without hesitation, my Takamine stays at home now.

Bought it used. N/A

What's good or bad is individual. After playing 29 years, I know what I like. I'm not a collector, I'm a player. I own a '96 strat, a 2000 Takamine and my Guild. If it were lost or stolen, I'd try to find another one as good as this one. If not, I'd go with another Guild. I'm sold on them now.

My Guild was made in 96 in Westerley, RI. It is a dreadnaught with an arched back. The top is a solid spruce top with the satin finish (not glossy), the back and sides are laminated mahogany, neck I am unsure about. The tuners are Grover. The nut and saddle appear to be bone or bone-like but I need to get good endpins. Guild spent more money with a good nut and saddle than a "pretty" rosette.
This is a pretty basic, plain jane guitar, but for what I paid and for the sounds that it can create I have no qualms.

Like many Guilds, it's strenght lies in the midrange sounds. They are usually the dominating waves coming out of the soundhole, but the lows and the highs come out beautifully when I want them to.
I play more strumming but the occasional finger picking sounds good on the Guild. I like playing mostly folk to rock type music and this guitar handles it. It can really project should you need/want it to.

I got this guitar used so I am unsure of what it would look like for the factory.
When I first got it, the guitar had obviously seen some use. Some of the frets were worn but they still have a long time to go before replacing. There's a stain right above the sound hole and 6th string which looks like a previous owner rested his/her hand there while picking or who knows what. The pickguard was a little scarred up and some pick marks around the guard.
The action was a bit high so I sanded down the saddle about 1/16th to an 1/8th of an inch. The action was a lot better but the sound still wasn't what I though it could be, so, I sent it to my friendly guitar man (not a luthier but he could be). He set it up and must have tweaked the truss rod because it was a dream when it came back. He also said some of the bracing was coming apart on the side by the beginning of the bell curve and he glued it for me (what a guy).
I'll be honest when I first got this guitar I did not think I would own it for very long but now, with the adjustments, I will alwys have this guitar. The more I play it the more I want to play it more (?)
Again this is not a flashy guitar but it's still beautiful.

This guitar seems exremely solid. My only complaint is a catch 22, the finish. The satin finish, I think, is lighter than the glossy finishes so this allows the top to vibrate with less impedence. The downside is that the top is not as well protected from stains and scratches as a gloss finish. Sometimes you can't win.
Besides that whole issue I love this guitar. This guitar withstands live playing and would not need a backup (although you'd be less than brilliant without one).

N/A Guild is now owned by Fender. Dealing with larger corporations can be less than pleasant.

This guitar has done nothing but grow on me every single day. I have owned it now for over 6 months. I have a Takamine F385 12 string, an Epiphone SG, and a Fender Telecaster. I love all of my guitars but lately these others must be getting jelous of the Guild. It just feels right in my hands and right in my ears and with all of that in mind this guitar was most certainly right for me.