Guild D-40

Features previously covered. But the prime ones are the workmanship, woods, & resulting tone & durability. They don't get any better than these. Mine's an '89. Built in Westerly RI...anything else ain't really a Guild ('cept for the Hoboken ones)!

Just plain wonderful. Fantastic projection, amazing intonation, wonderfully balanced with a full bass, solid mids, and sweet high end. Rings for days, but with a great woody tone. I play w/ a coupla folks w/ '60s Martins (D-28 & D-35) & even they grudgingly admit that my Guild D-40 often trumps their Martins (I'd be grudging about it too, if I'd done what they did: spent about TWICE what I paid for my D-40).

Real versatile, w/ great chimey lead tone, but also almost piano like when chorded. Excellent note definition. Records awesomely with a decent mic.

A jumbo's got more rumble & a sweet parlor body has more focused mids, but the dreadnaught's the jack-of-all-trades. This is about as good it gets for a dread. I've only ever played one other dread as good as this one, but it was a Guild also-- a '70s Guild D-50 -- but that axe has about 12 more years of tonal seasoning than mine...

It's first 12 yrs were with someone else, so I can't comment on the factory setup, though mine's dialed in wonderfully. The finish is awesome as are the woods (killer bearclaw on the spruce top), binding & hardware.

Every aspect of this axe is extremely well-built. After 20 yrs it's only gotten better. It'll outlast me. As good as a Martin & that's saying a lot!

The real Guild was famous for their support, but there's no more real guild as a company. Now it's just a logo owned by the corp. vampires at FmIc... I can't imagine this axe ever needing much, but I'd just go to a luthier. Luthier's do real work, unlike the blood-suckers at f*nD$r.

Doesn't get any better than this & certainly not for what they run. Been playing about 35 yrs now. Mainly played 12s & a 6 string jumbo & parlor body, before deciding I really needed a 6 string dread. This D-40 fills the bill. I own some great axes, but this about the best. After 8 yrs it still sorta bowls me over every time I pick it up!

Natural, high gloss lacquer finish. Dreadnought. Spruce top, mahogany back and sides.Schaller tuners (I had installed after I bought the guitar). Pre-Fender, bought in the early '80s.

I play mainly folk and folk-rock, fingerpicking. This guitar is great for anyone who fingerpicks -- big, full volume and clear tone.

The only flaw I could find when I received the guitar (mail-ordered from Elderly Instruments) was a slightly misaligned reference dot on the side of the neck; looked as if they'd gotten it wrong the first time and tried to correct it -- but didn't quite make it. The action was slightly higher than I prefer, but slightly tweaking the truss rod took care of it. At the time I bought this guitar, Guild was putting some kind of no-name tuners on the D-40. I didn't think they held a tuning very well, so had a local music store replace them with Schallers, which work perfectly.

The guitar is built like a highly melodic tank. Despite its age, the finish is still in superb condition, with no crazing or cracking. If I could carry only one guitar, this would be it.

My D-40 has a lifetime warranty. Not that I've ever had to use it.

I've been playing guitar 44 years. Besides my D-40, I have a Gretsch Hauser model (nylon-strink folk acoustic) I bought secondhand when I was in college and a La Patrie Concert classical guitar I just got from a local pawnshop (I've recently started learning classical guitar). For folk and folk-rock, the D-40 is unbeatable. If (god forbid) it were lost or stolen, I would get another one. A year or so ago, we had a tornado warning. When we went down to the basement, I carried my D-40 and my late father's 80-year-old saxophone. I originally planned to buy a Martin D-28 but choked at the price. I can't imagine I'd have been any happier with the D-28 than I am with my D-40.

Solid spruce top

?? Solid mahogany back and sides
?? Mahogany neck
?? 12" radius rosewood fretboard with pearl dot inlays
?? Rosewood bridge
?? Hand-shaved bracing
?? Grover chrome plated die-cast tuners
?? 20 frets
?? Tortoise shell pickguard
?? Classic Guild rosette
?? Richie Havens signature truss rod cover
?? 1.68" nut width
. Fishman pre amp & electronics
?? 25.625" scale length
?? 4.81" body depth (at deepest)
?? 16" body width (at widest)
?? Nitro-cellulose natural lacquer finish

?? Made in USA

Very clear and distinct across the spectrum as are most Guild D40s. Had my concerns at first because although I own several other Guild guitars, this is the first post-Fender acquisition I've purchased from the Tacoma WA plant. My fears were unwarranted.

Perfectly set up, right out of the box. Low action. Well built as are all Guilds... I own several martins and Taylor guitars and although I really like them, the Guilds are heavier and can take any reasonable accidental abuse. I'm a nut about keeping all my guitars pristine. All this will need is some time for the spruce to age. If it matures as my 90s era Westerly-build Guilds, I'll be very, very happy.

Its a Guild...should last my lifetime and well beyond. I'll will her to my granddaughter when the time comes. No backup needed for mechanical concerns; I keep my Taylor 314MCE ready as quick backup in case of broken strings...

No experience with the Fender folks who now provide support. I'm a bit picky, though, and if necessary, I'll go to my personal luthier. I know he cares...

Playing off and on since 1967. Sizeable stable includes: 1974 Epiphone FT-16- Texas 12, 1987 Yamaha FG-340 II, 1999 Taylor 314 MCE, 1994 Martin D-35, 2006 Martin DX12, 1984 Martin Shenandoah 2835 (12 string), 2007 Little Martin, 2004 Guild D-25 (Corona), 1998 Guild D4-12-NT-HR (Westerly), 1999 Guild JF-30-12 (Westerly), 2007 Guild GAD 212E ANT, Just ordered a 2007 Guild D55 (Tacoma made).

Favorite feature: electronics

Purchased from ebay retailer. I thought sure it was a blem at this price (vs. 1799.00 list). It arrived in perfect condition complete with good serial number and Guild warranty papers

Guild D40 Bluegrass Jubilee - 2007 Tacoma, Wash. Beautiful nitro finish. Tortoise binding and pick guard. Grover tuners so nice, I don't know how to act. Slightly (1/16) wider nut makes it easier to finger pick than most steel string guitars. Really solid case, but not heavy. Superior solid woods. Perfect, minimalist inlay. I like the flat heel at the body, making it easier to reach 15 - 18 (14 to the neck). No electronics...if I need to amp it, I have a Markley pickup.

The lightest touch will produce full, round tones. Hammer it - "Guild. Made to be Played" - and you will blow the room away. Major sustain. Perfect intonation to the end of the fretboard. The overtones produce nearly a singing quality to chords. I play rhythm for gospel, olde timey and bluegrass; flat pick Irish and Celtic tunes; finger pick classical and DADGAD; I had to try an open G and the slide just because, and was amazed.

Absolutely flawless.

I've only had it for a week, but have put about 30 hours on it, and have not had to re-tune. Amazing.

The customer support at Dave's Guitar is legendary. Now that Clay Riness is working the acoustic room, it like having your very own master musician on hand.

I have been playing guitar for over 40 years, and this is the nicest, sweetest one I have ever played...including $2500 Martins. And I like Martins a lot. Got it brand new at Dave's Guitar in La Crosse Wisconsin, on May 24 for about $300 less than any intenet store. Finger pick, flat pick, rhythm strum, slide, frail, use your teeth...all that will come out is sweet music. The guitar plays better than I do, and I can't put it down. "I got blisters on me fingers". Like other reviewers, once I played it in the store, I kept coming back to it because it really felt like "my" guitar. If it were stolen or lost, I would enter a deep depression; and then file an insurance claim. If you don't have this or any of your instruments on a personal property option with your insurance guy, you're taking a huge risk.

I have the last year of the Guild D-40 out of Corona, CA (fender owned them at the time and the D-40 was made until 2003 as I understand it - then they came out with the Bluegrass Jubilee version out of Tacoma - who cares, I know) It's a nice looking classy dreadnought. Solid Spruce top and Solid Mahogany back and sides. Rosewood fingerboard and bridge. Nice Grover Tuners. 1 11/16" nut. No electronics. Sexy Guild Headstock

Full, but fairly mellow - with fairly crisp highs - fairly definitive lows, but mainly a midranged - middle of the road guitar. Fingerpicks well - great sound for that and good old folky tunes. My style is sort of Americana, grass-roots style. I never used picks - so I fingerpick or finger-strum - and I have been known to get a bit percussive (I have been a drummer since age 6). Great sound for what I use it for.

Came set-up well - no buzz, but low and lanky enough to fingerpick well. Responds well to my organic playing style (I sound nuts right now, yeah I got that). Bridge, bookmatching, and body-binding are well done. Mine has a few small lacquer checks - no biggie, does not affect sound. Also had the lacquer eaten through where it hung on the headstock in the music shop I got it from. I just live with it - doesn't effect sound - and you had better not complain about how my headstock looks.

Durable overall, but like I said - little lacquer checking, a few ridges around the soundhole. Hardware is great and it stays in tune well. finish is the biggest complaint - but just cosmetic. Don't use a strap, and yes - I feel like I can depend on it. I take care of her. Keep her in her case with her humidifier. I can trust it to play live - I do it every night at home.

Haven't bugged Fender about the finish issues, so I do not know. I hope I never have to find out how good/bad their customer support is.

I have been playing guitar for about 14 years. I have had a cedar simon and patrick (good fingerpicker), a Guild D4-12, Alvarez dy80-12, Martin Jumbo 12, Taylor Koa, Epiphone Masterbuilt, Samick (shoot me now - I hated that thing), a gibson resonator, and I do not know what else. But, this is my favorite all around player. Yes, I would try and replace her if she were lost, but I would be nervous and lonely. Hey - are you threatening to steal my guitar??? I love the way it plays - easy and smooth, but laborious enough that I feel like I am playing a classic design, with a good size neck and a fat dreadnaught waist. No, I did not compare it when I bought it - I loved the way it sounded and that was that.

1969 Dreadnaught made in Hoboken,New Jersey. Ribbon grain mahogany body, 3 piece mahogany neck, sodid spruce top, original Guild tuners, bound top and back of body. Beautifully finished, bought new in 1969, now showing signs of age, but absolutely no structural problems.

I play bluegrass, country, gospel, flat picking and fingerstyle. It works well for anything I play. It's the only acoustic guitar I'll ever need for rhythm or lead. Tons of volume, very sweet tone, brighter than Martin dreadnaughts, not as mellow. Clearer tone than Gibsons which sound "chunkier". The ultimate answer for bluegrass flat picking, and sweet mellow but clear tones for fingerpicking. It came with Guild M410 medium bronze strings, but I like it better with light guage bronze strings, usually Martin or Yamaha. Easier on the fingers. I went through a phase using an old DeArmond removable pickup in the sound hole with medium round wound steel strings, which gave a sound similar to a good deep body jazz guitar, but I went back to bronze for the acoustic sound. I think it has mellowed slightly over the years. I love this guitar. I don't know whether the newer Guilds since Fender took over are similar.

Guitar was perfect from the factory, except for my preference for light strings instead of medium. A guitar tech checked it out and his comment was, "This is the most fantastic guitar!" I think I lucked out with this one. I've seen other D-40s with not as pretty ribbon grain in the mahogany sides and back. The finish has checked a bit over the years

Very reliable and durable. Original tuners, bridge and nut still going strong. If I would stop bumping it and accidentally closing the case on it, it would still be like new, except for the small amount of checking in the finish. Never take a backup.

I have never needed warranty service, but have heard support was excellent. Don't know, now that Fender owns the company.

Have played on and off for 40 years, but recently more seriously practising, and trying new styles. Have had 2 other acoustics, both junk, and one Framus electric, also junk. I compared it to Gibsons, Martins, Hofner, Barclay, and many others. Closest competition was Martin, but they were more expensive and the Guild was much better sounding when fingerpicking.

I bought my left-handed Guild D-40 new in 1974. It has a Bearclaw Sitka Spruce top and Honduras mahogany (with some figuring)sides and back. Although offered at the time for this model and it's 12 string companion, this old axe has no on-board electronics. I used Bill Lawrence, Shadow, and Dean Markley sound hole pick-ups when performing but opted for good mike placement for recording. I still have the original hardshell case for it. The quality of the wood and construction have far made up for lack of cosmetic goodies. It has the original Guild tuners that have been trouble free, ebony headstock with MOP inlaid Chesterfield and Guild. The top has turned dark and a small hole has appeared beside the pickguard from years of percussive strumming. I have made arrangements with a luthier in Columbus Ohio to have the very worn rosewood fretboard and frets replaced. Years ago I replaced the worn bone bridge pins with brass pins.

I play a variety of music, heavy-metal, grunge, Neil Young stuff to bluegrass. My D-40 allows me to fingerpick to percussive strumming without compromise. It was a very bright sounding guitar when new but now it has a clear open tone with clarity from strong bass to treble.
This guitar never fails to get great comments about it's sound. The sound is so great, I find myself playing longer just to hear it. I have other acoustics, but none sound like this D-40.

The original action was okay when received. I was still learning to make music when I bought it 1974 so I was not to concerned about the action until I started to flatpicking up the neck. I had a professional in Nashville make the needed adjustment and it blew me away. Since that adjustment, I have only made one neck adjustment and that was after I replaced the original worn out bone saddle. The overall construction of this D-40 is flawless.

This D-40 has been one of my main guitars since I started performing and remains my main guitar. I usually have my Taylor lefty 855 12 string along as well but if I had to choose one, it would be the Guild. The finish now has held up well. Except for finish missing on the back of the neck, various dings on the top, sides and back, and pick wear around the sound hole, it looks fairly good for it's age and has held up very good.

I've never contacted Guild since 1974. That was when I called them to see if a left-handed D-40 could be had and they responded within a few weeks. Martin told me it would be several months and that I should shop around for a left-handed D-18.

I've been playing and writing music for 30 plus years. I learned to play guitar "upside down", that is a right-handed guitar played with the treble E on top and bass E on the bottom. This proved to be very helpful even today because I can go into a guitar shop, pull down a righty and play it. So I have played lots of guitars and have learned alot about woods, construction, and tone. I have a Rickenbacker lefty 370-12, a Taylor lefty 855 12 string, a Fender lefty San Miguel cutaway, a lefty Ibanez AW100 CE (great sounding guitar through a Zoom 504 and Laney Hardcore amp) and 2 left-handed banjoes. If the Guild were ever lost or stolen it would be very hard to replace but I would definitely try to replace it. I love it for the quality of the wood and the tone, it is a very responsive guitar.

Won't go into great detail because others have already covered most of the important facets of this fine guitar. Mine is a 2001 or 2002 that was made in Corona, CA. I love the fretboard on this guitar and the large, Chesterfield head.

When I was in the market for a mid-range accoustic I started to pick up and play every freakin' affordable guitar of it's like, to include Martin. The first thing that hit me was the unique tone I got...and at that moment I knew I had "my" guitar. I still tried a number of guitars over a week but kept coming back to this guitar because of the unique sound.

This is a slightly used Guild with a couple of small, slight cracks on the body below the bridge - otherwise in great shape. Mahogony sides and back and spruce top with the Fender name at the base of the head below the serial number. It' listed for $1600.00 but the cracks (which are slight as a say) drove the price down...but this guitar would've been out of the shop before long if I hadn't gotten it.

Came with a nice case and Guild durability has already been spoken for on here...this is a guitar that is made to last and if you take care of it, it will last a lifetime.

This is a used guitar and I use local guys for any repairs, etc...with Florida State in the same town with their excellent peforming arts program, I can get great service from a number of people.

I've only been playing guitar for a while, but have played a number of instruments (both formall and just for fun) on and off for 30 years. I started with an introductory Alvarez and have since played a number of Ovation, Seagull, Martin, Takamine, etc. For the price, look, durabilty, and just great accoustic sound, I'll definitely go with Guild again unless something else in the $2000.00 range sounds, feels, and looks better. IMO, a $2000.00 Martin has nothing on this guitar, maybe even a higher end Martin...I went with my "ear" and this guitar just took me right away and I'd be hard pressed not to have another and always have a similar Guild on hand.

My D40 was made in 1978 in the USA. It has a Sunburst top of solid spruce with nitro-cellulose lacquer finish. Solid mahogany back and sides, Guild name and Chesterfield logo in mother-of-pearl. I had to change the machine heads due to normal wear and tear, which broke my heart. The neck is a bit "Chunky" but solid as a rock - no need for adjustment on a regular basis.

It has a fantastic Acoustic Sound to it (I rarely use it through PA). A bit bright on the top end, but not to the extent that I would complain. It has a lovely bright "middle" tone to it, no buzzing or rattling - a really sweet, clean sound.

I bought the guitar second-hand and it had quite a few distress marks on it, presumably because it had been owned by a moron who didn't look after it. Despite that, it still looks good.

This guitar is really well built - typical American craftsmanship. Properly looked after, it will last forever, The finish is still good - no cracks or flaws apart from previous mis-use.

I have been playing for 40 years and the Guild sounds better than anything in its price range. If it were stolen or lost, I would buy another, but only an American one - I don't rate the newer models as good as the older ones. I also own a Gibson J30 cutaway, which I love to bits, and use mainly through PA because of its superior electrics, but it is a completely different animal to the Guild, which gives me plenty of variety in what I play.

I am resubmitting my review after playing the D40 for several months now. I play at home, in group gigs, and in a church band. I am a rythem guitarist. I bought my D40 from Musician's Friend on a close out sale. The price was $750 including a hardshell case.

It was made in 2001 at the Corona, California facility. This was their first year of production under the Fender label after leaving the Nashville facility.

The guitar came with a fishman matrix piezo under the saddle. As mentioned previously the guitar had a few minor blemishes. It has since checked about 4 inches across the front almost to the bridge.

The sound is excellent. Everyone that tries this guitar loves the sound. It is a bit on the bright side. I recently played a group gig with a guy that had a Blue Ridge acoustic. His sounded better, but I understand his was made from aged wood, and he did not have a pick-up under the saddle. I think he gave $650 for his. He has a good collection of acoustics.

My wood hasn't aged yet, and the pickup under the saddle does change the sound.

On the piezo pick-up I'm going to upgrade my previous rating. Don't mess with the EQ. It is hardwired into the electronics and you don't need any EQ adjustment. This is the mistake I was making when I first got the guitar. I play it on a Carvin amp and it sounds very good -- not perfect, but I have received several complements on the sound quality.

I'd give it a 9.5 rating. The natural acoustic sound is excellent, and having electric production capabilities is definitely a plus.

I covered this in the first section of the review. The only thing I might add is that the cable nut on the guitar strap button kept falling off so I finally glued it on. I also had to add a strap button under the neck. The guitar tends to lean out toward those heavy grover tuners. I've gotten used to it, and it doesn't affect my control.

The action was perfect for me. I like it really low, which means I can't play as hard, but I make up for the lower volume with amplification.

It seems to be a very reliable guitar. I'd say the tuners are just a tad loose, but they are very stout, and they hold tune quite well.

The checking is just a fact of life with an extra thin finish like I have.

Except for the strap button falling off during a rehersal I've never had a problem in performance. As I said before, glue took care of the problem --it kept coming unscrewed.

They seemed to be co-operative enough. I thought about repairing the checked finish, but I'm going to leave it alone. I don't want anyone to change the sound by messing with the finish. It just isn't a big deal on the looks of the guitar. It is a pretty guitar.

I love this guitar. There are others out there that are better, but for $750 I got a great deal. It plays as easy as an electric. It sounds excellent. I've had a lot of professionals try playing it and they are impressed with it. Yeah, you can do a little better for 2 or 3 grand.

I really like Tacomas too. I might buy a tacoma 12 string, cut-away, semi-jumbo for $1300. It sounds better but it should with 12 strings on it.

I bought it for $750 brand new from Musician's Friend on a clearance sale. It was a sweet deal. I read the other so-so reviews on this model that were 30+ years old, not new like mine. This model is a re-issue of those models, with superior construction -- Beefy Grover Tuners - not those 30 year old cheapies. The neck DOES NOT need a reset. It is solid and a little thick. Only a minor adjustment was needed since it started setting in.

Mine is a Standard set-up on a full body guitar with spruce top, mahagony sides, etc. as described in the Guild literature. This guitar was made in 2003, Corolla, CA, USA. It included the fishman matrix active Natural I piezo pickup option under the saddle. No controls, No condenser Mike. Includes deluxe case.

Without the pick-up it is a great sounding guitar. I play in a band and it cuts right through the mix with clear lows, balanced midrange and sparkling highs. No mud anyhwere on this one. The tone is bright across the entire range and evenly balance. It deserves its name "BlueGrass Jubilee". It could play about anything. My wife says it sounds like a Doobie Brothers acoustic.

With the pickup it is probably is not as good as a Takamine. I have a Carvin 100 acoustic amp.

I give an overall sound rating of 9. If I only judged the acoustic tone I would rate it a 10.

The action was darn near perfect. It played so easy. I made one minor neck adjustment, with full tension applied to the strings as recommended in the owners manual. It cranked real easy.

There was one small ding near the soundhole. The case got a scratch through shipment. Otherwise I would give it a 10. No way I'm sending it back because of these minor flaws.

It looks and feels like a workhorse to me. It is solid, and a little heavy, but it did not give up anything on the sound.

no experience

I've been playing it about 2 weeks. If it were stolen I couldn't replace it, not for what I paid. It's a keeper for life as far as I'm concerned. The piezo isn't that good otherwise I love it.

I believe this is a 2002 model. It is the first review on this site for a Fender Corona CA made D40. Traditional specs haven't changed. All solid woods. Spruce top, Mahogany back and sides. One piece mahogany neck, White binding on the body. tortoiseshell pickguard. Ebony headstock with inlaid MOP Guild logo and Chesterfield motif. No electronics on this one although I have added an LR Baggs Ibeam active Pickup. Nitro-Cellulose lacquer gloss finish. Chrome Grover tuners. Archtop case

I'm a traditional kind of guy and like a variety of styles. this guitar works well for Bluegrass, flat picking, Strumming. and finger style. Just a great all around guitar. Very clean sounding with just the right amount of bass response. Not muddy at all. Very resonant. I use D"Addarrio EXP 16's, (light gauge coated phosphor bronze). I love these strings and they sound great for a long time on this guitar.

Since this guitar was slightly used when I got it I can't comment on factory set up. However, when I got it the truss rod needed just a little relief which allowed me to lower the action a bit andd now I live the way this guitar plays. The neck is slightly beefier than I am use to and it took a little bit of adjustment time, but now I am very comfortable with it. Fit and finsh are absolutely first rate. It's so beautiful that sometimes I get it out just so I can look at it! I've owned a handful of guitars that list in the $2500 - $3000 pric range including Martins, Larrivees, Gibsons, Taylors, and Tacomas. This is my favorite guitar of any of them

This guitar seems every bit as well built as previous Rhode Island made Guilds. I see nothing in the construction that would indicate that this guitar will not last me a lifetime. Definitely gigable (is that a word?). Although I only ever play at Church. Maybe not quite as heavy as previous Guilds but still well made and solid.

Any time I have ever contacted Fender/Guild in the past they have been prompt with a response and helpful. Ssince this was a used guitar it does not have a warranty, but I always thought warranties were for cars anyway.

I've been playing for 20 years or so. I have owned LOTS of guitars. Some in the $2500 - $3000 range (see above) If you're a Guild fan don't hesitate to check the new California mad Guilds out. Fender is doing a great job of carrying on the Guild tradition. Great sound, Great vibe, Great look. I would definitely try to find a good deal on another if something happened to this one. I'd consider a D50 but I do like the briteness of the mahogany.

1978 (one year older than me!!) D-40NT that I purchased used a few years ago.
It has a solid top with mahogany back and sides. Mahogany neck and a rosewood 14/20 fretboard. Dot inlays and fancy chesterfield guild logo on headstock. Body binding but nothing on the neck (only thing that I would like to have on this guitar that it doesn't).

When I first picked it up in the store and played it I had tears in my eyes. I knew I had to purchase this guitar within about 4 minutes of playing it. I've never heard an acoustic guitar that sounds this proper before.

I don't know what the factory setup is. Like I said this thing was made probably before I was even conceived.

No bridge lift, no neck warp, no fret pulls, no top cracking or anything like that. Neck joint is solid as ever. It has two fairly large welts on it, and I accidently dropped a vaccum onto the side once (yeah I know) but they don't affect the tone at all. Nothing through the wood, mainly just icky spots on the finish.

purchased long passed warranty, and I have never spoken to guild regarding a guitar before.

I love this guitar. I will never sell it. I wanted to get an acoustic as old or older than me. I played Martins that cost twice as much and didn't sound half as good. Guild is a great company that seems to have been hugely overlooked throughout history. I plan on tracking down an F45 or F60 now. All blonde with a nice flamey neck, ebony fretboard, and those really cool block and triangle inlays.

I bought this 1979 (pre-Fender) D-40 via e-bay. It's definitely seen some serious use (and in my opinion, some abuse), but I think it's held up suprisingly well. Has a beautiful Sunburst top of solid spruce with nitro-cellulose lacquer finish. Solid mahogany back and sides, Guild name and Chesterfield logo in mother-of-pearl. Overall, still pretty visually stunning even though its a bit battered.

I hear a lot about Guilds and the "booming" bass, but I think this guitar is well-balanced with down right beautiful, crystaline highs. It can certainly rock out, and begs to be strummed with abandon, but picking and fingerstyle sound great too. It's fun to play and very hard to put down.

Again, this was an e-bay purchase, and you have to have a little faith when buying an acoustic sight unseen (beyond six pictures) and sound unheard. I took it straight to a local luthier and had it properly set up and a small crack in the lower bottom bout cleated. The action is now fantastic, but it required some fairly serious saddle reduction. The bridge was re-glued in the '80's according to the seller--but it's rock solid now so I can't really comment on that (although there are some visible signs of the work). The tuners are the origanal chrome Grovers, and they're working just fine.

This guitar has lived a good life--lots of knocks and dings, wear along the sides of the neck (capo?), the crack I mentioned which was the result of something hitting the top with something heavy, and some pretty serious weather checking (that "crackling" look you get when an instrument with a nitro-cellulose lacquer finish is exposed to rapid and extreme changes in temperature. The lacquer can't "keep up" with the expansion/contraction of the wood and finish cracks are the result). But honestly, the darn thing still looks totally cool and sounds great. Guild's seem to have a well-found reputation for being very solid.

Haven't dealt with that yet--hope I don't have to try!

A solid guitar that still has many years of music in it. Tonally, I consider it competitive with other mahogany dreads at a great price. If lost or stolen I'd be seriously disappointed, and would certainly look for another Guild--but would probably buy a D-50.

No frills. Good woods. Durable construction. 1967 model made in Hoboken, got it new at Prager and Ritter Guitar Gallery in Chcago. Paid U$265 w/hs case.

Balanced. Not too loud...espcially with xtra-lites. I put a 332 in the saddle a long time ago and it sounds as sweet as a Fishman. At least to me it does. Play it through a Fender Princeton Chorus...the 2 X 10's sound perfectly acceptible (to me) for accoustics.

I'd like to drop tyhe action another 1/32nd"...but the belly has started to pooch out over the years (less than mine!) Neck has been like a rock...only tweaked the truss rod twice in 30-some years. Love the skinny nut width on Guilds. Easily let's me cop a fretted note on the low E with a wrap-around thumb. The transition from the top of the neck to the peg head is perfectly contoured...better than any guitar I've ever held.

Finish looks it age. Playability is as good as ever. Sound seems sweeter with each year that passes.

Never needed it. Own 3 other Guilds, all built right. My next guitar will be a Guild. This guitar has come with me to more places than the company has moved.

Playing since '65. This was a gift from my parents in '67. Every year for Christmas my kids get me new strings...it's like getting a brand new guitar. The best present I ever got. The only material possesion I cherish. Un-replaceable.

This is a 1972 D-40 that I've had since it was new. Standard dreadnought shape. Mahogony back and sides, spruce top, rosewood fingerboard. I put grover rotomatics on about 20 years ago. Also, an end pin jack for a seymour duncan tube pickup suspended in the hole. Nut width a little narrower than standard. Used a late 70's Martin plastic case for the past 25 years (well worth it). Very heavy wood and bracing. Weighs a ton.

This is where I wanted to weigh in on the discussion taking place here on Harmony Central regarding this instrument. It's a workhorse, but the sound is not in any way competetive with Martin, let alone Collings, Santa Cruz, Breedlove, etc. The sound is nice and balanced, lends itself to amplification well, but no volume, bass or treble. They say you can't hitch a racehorse to a plow, and likewise, you can't win any races riding a draft horse, and that's what this is, a workhorse. One caveat, however, I did actually play one that sounded good once. Don't know why, but it felt a lot lighter than mine.

It's a truck. I played this guitar a lot. I've had a fret job, all the finish is worn off the back of the neck, reglue on the bridge, scratches all over the front, and nothing ever happened to the neck or the bracing.

Uh, I guess my prvious comments belong here. This is pretty much the MOST reliable acoustic flat top out there. You pay for it in the sound. I've checked this guitar through regular luggage on airplanes...no problem.

I don't remember what I paid, but then, like now, it was about half of what you'd pay for a Martin. It sounds about half as good, maybe not even half. As a utility instrument, however, it's great. Again, if you're using a pickup the acoustic sound becomes almost irrelevant, and it plays very beautifully. The neck is very very solid. It should be fairly compared to Seagulls (sound good, built like eggshells) or Takamines (great electronics, built a little heavier, sound OK) or Ovations (loud as hell, but despicable unmusical sound). These are built to last. Thirty years later, this baby is still here. Oh, about me, I have several other guitars including some very much better than this one (Martin, Gibson, Fender). I wouldn't have any reason to replace this one, but on the other hand, I consider it to be worth more than I could sell it for (maybe $600 or so), so here it stays.

This Guild is, I believe, a 1967 model, which makes it about 15 years older than me. laminated top, ivory inlaid soundhole, closed tuners, probably grovers, but i was given the guitar and have never been one to look a gift horse in the mouth. neck is perfect size, although a bit slow to play. frets are jumbo. i honestly have no idea how much of the thing is still original parts, but i think most of it is factory original parts.

this is a great sounding guitar. in certain temperature and humidity conditions it can sound just slightly dull, but overall it has a nice mildly bright warm tone. perfect for just about any style. no complaints.

action is a tad higher than i like, but i play mostly electric, sooo... for an acoustic the action is about the best i've played on. as far as guitar flaws go, the thing is 30+ years old and has really been around. i have no idea where the guy who gave it to me got it, but he got it new. over the years, the pickguard has started to peel up a little bit at the back end. also, the bridge has come off ( again, i don't know when our how) but was put back on by a sub-par tech and sits maybe a quarter centimeter off the body on an island of epoxy (or something) however, considering that it IS its age and still sounds and plays great, and that i got it for free, who can whine?

this is a nice solid guitar. i have no idea how, but no neck or body warping at ALL after 30 years of existence. like i said, the pickguard and bridge are screwed up a bit, but neither problem affects the playability at all. just cosmetic damage, and i like guitars that are vintage and look it, so there you go.

I've been playing about six years, and i own (besides this guitar) a gibson victory MV 2, a peavey raptor for beating around, a Laney floor amp and a modest but effective array of pedals. This guitar was given to me by a fellow player when he got an ovation electric-acoustic. he played this thing pretty constantly for about 20 years of its life, then retired it when he got new toys. i have no idea why; it's a gorgeous and great-sounding guitar, but i appreciate the fact that it's mine. if you read this, Ron, thanks a BUNCH.

Having read the lead review, I feel compelled to submit mine--which contrasts the aforementioned 180 degrees. I have had a particular fondness for Guilds for some time and have owned several models of both dreadnoughts and nylon string: one 1976 D50, two D25s, two Mark IIIs, and a very early Mark II (made in Hoboken). Before the recent advent and accessibility of quality guitarmakers, I formerly sought only Guilds due to their quality and price. Ergo, so many Guild guitars over the years. I have stories for all of these, but now have only a 1976 D40. Having owned so many, I am able to make comparisons. In contrst to the lead article attributing a fragile character to the D40, my experience is that if one thing characterizes these instruments, it's durability. These guitars are made with lots of wood and are heavy. I live in the dry air of the west and the neck on my D40 has moved only little just over the past couple of years. I use only a little herco clay case humidifier. I have flown to Florida with this instrument and was amazed to observe upon returning west that the neck had not moved at all. The top is beginning to bulge and droop some, but this is inevitable. A more fragile instrument would have moved much more over this time. My D50, for example, had its top bulge at the bridge and some separation due to its thinner top. But the D40 is made to last. The D25s, with their thick, laminated arch backs are just tanks. These are great road guitars. Sound and playability aspects are superb, but these heavy, durable instruments do not produce the type of delicate resonance as Martins or some Gibsons which are truly much more fragile. These guitars do what they were made to do. Just pick it up and feel how much heavier the Guild is. It takes more energy to move this much more wood.

I bought my D-40 in 1998, I believe it was made in 1977. It had sat in a case for years as the person who owned it never got around to learning to play, so it was like new. The D-40 is a no-frills guitar made of spruce and mahogany . No fancy inlays or highly-figured top, no electronics...There were complaints about the tuners on these instruments, and I have indeed had problems with them breaking, as well as with bridge slippage. The neck is "just right" not too thin or too pudgy, and the fretwork is excellent.

Heres where the gold stars are handed out. I've always found Guilds to be the happy medium between the chunkiness of a good Gibson and the playability and tone of a Martin, and I prefer Guilds to either one-I play and write in a variety of styles, equal parts retro-pop, twangy, fingerpicked and jazzy, with big shifts in dynamics. I use open tunings and capos often (which may account for my complaints throughout the review) and find the D-40 suited for any style. I use a Dean Markley Pro-Mag pickup through a Boss GT-3 processor and a variety of Tube Amps (though I may switch to a Polytone for it's jazz vibe and that they are wonderful keyboard amps). The D-40 REALLY shines in a recording situation, where its warmth and musicality (which are the hallmarks of Guild guitars, especially their hollowbodies) really cuts through-It reacts well to the GT-3 and is equally good for fingerpicking and chords either delicate or bashed. Very, very playable...

As one Mr. Loaf once said, "Two out of three ain't bad." The action and fit are among the best I've ever encountered. I bought the guitar used, but it was like new and was set up well. It is a perfect fit, as I said earlier, the neck is "just right. Unfortunately, I have had to have it repaired quite often, perhaps it's the age of the guitar, the fact that the woods Guild uses are not as thick as Gibson or Martin guitars, the Florida weather, as well as my tendency to clumsiness or demolition derby, but the wood around the soundhole broke, I've had four of the tuners fall apart, and it seems like all you have to do is breathe on the instrument to put a "ding" in it. Also, the went a little nuts with the epoxy around the bridge, which is slipping. Guild did cut some corners on this instrument to keep it affordable, which is the case on many of their instruments. Action: 10 Fit: 10 Finish: 3

Refer to the above columns so I don't repeat myself, m'kay?? Luckily when I've had these accidents they were before rather than during a gig. Soundwise, the D-40 ALWAYS delivers, the neck and frets are great. I will need to replace the tuners and eventually the bridge and have had the soundhole repaired, I fear that it will end badly for the D-40, but it'll still have tone, tone and tone...It is a very fragile guitar, and after years of use, abuse and finding out the hard way, I will always have a backup.

Probably not an issue, though back in the day they were good. A big shout-out to Johnny's House of Guitars in Seminole, FL for their excellent, prompt and very reasonable servicing of this guitar!!

I've been playing semi-professionally for 25 years, and have nearly always had at least one Guild guitar in my collection, whether classical, acoustic or electric. If I was "somebody" I would nag for an endorsement deal. Despite their inconsistencies (again, very possibly of age, humidity and my own doing), I wouldn't fancy playing anything else (Besides,I'm too cheap!!) and Guilds have always offered the best bang-for-buck ratio of any USA-made guitar, and there are sweeeeet deals to be had on older ones. I would probably go with a different model if something happened to this one, perhaps more solidly-built and more ornate. In the end, though, I have tried this guitar against several others, and it never loses a shootout. What it lacks in certain areas in workmanship it more than makes up for in playability, versatility and sound.

This guitar is as original, with the exception of the addition of closed Grover tuners and a strap pin on the heel.

When my old D-40 was first built back in 1962, it had (so I can imagine) a nice blonde top which has since mellowed to the color of dark amber. The sound has mellowed much the same way - it's a sweet, clear tone that I can only describe as incredible. It was my main guitar for many years of live stagework and has been used and featured on many recordings. The more it's played the bigger and better it sounds and has only gotten better over time.

The action took some work when I first got the guitar, but not nearly as much work as the finish. Some well meaning knot-head had given it two nice new coats of Varathane in the hope, I would guess, of covering up the checked finish. Quite frankly, it sounded horrible until I got all of the junk removed. There was a huge crack behind the bridge, but I figured that just added "character". I have a friend who, at the time, was a museum conservator who specialized in old instruments and he took the D-40 and fixed the cracks and loose struts without changing the appearance. It still looks like a veteran, kinda beat up!

Many years of gigging six nighters didn't even phase this thing. The finish is wearing thin in places and just plain gone in others. As for a backup; I thought long and hard about retiring her and finding something newer but gave it up as a bad idea.

I'm sure that if I asked, Guild would look after her but after forty years, who knows?

This old girl has survived a lot of miles, not just a few parties and has outlasted more than one wife. She has never failed me and only asks for new strings once in a while. I bought the D-40 to replace a Tama that had been stolen from my apartment the night before a gig. That Tama was top-of-the-line; mother of pearl this; abalone that and a genuine ebony whachamacallit. The D-40 actually started out as a two hundred and fifty dollar throw-away to be replaced as soon as possible. Well, it didn't get replaced, we became inseparable and now I thank the guy that stole the Tama - I think HE got the short end of the stick.

Made in USA, 1971. Solid spruce top, mahogany back & sides, mahogany neck with rosewood fingerboard. Dreadnaught. Original tuners were cheesy open Grovers; I replaced with better, closed Grovers.

I bought this guitar used in 1976. At the time I had a Gibson Dove and had only been playing 5-6 years. The first time I picked up the Guild I thought, "Wow, so this is what an acoustic guitar is supposed to sound like!" It has a very balanced sound. Have used it for bluegrass, country, rock, and jazz. I even play Bach on it once in a while! I had a barcus berry hot dot installed in the bridge in '76 or '77. Sounds pretty good amplified, and the hot dot plus a good condenser mic mixed together gives a fantastic recorded acoustic sound.

Action is good, neck has held up very well. About 6 years after I bought it I noticed a buzz coming from inside. The repairman told me the bridge plate (inside, underneath bridge) was glued on with epoxy. He heated it up, tried to pry the thing off so he could reglue it, and the pry-bar BROKE THROUGH THE TOP! I was watching and almost started crying. He said, "I'm going to put this away now and I'd like you to leave." Didn't have to ask twice. He repaired the top, and the buzz, no charge. The guitar sounds better but looks like crap.

A couple of years ago I retired this guitar from live playing, because I dropped it and had to have more repairs done. It is 30 years old and looks it. Finish wearing off the back of the neck, finish checks all over the top, and scars from playing too damned hard on it (blood stains on the inside!). But don't get me wrong, it still plays and sounds great, and I believe it's built to last. I was just too young and foolish and didn't take the kind of care that of it that keeps a guitar looking pretty. Given my careless youth, this guitar has taken a beating and keeps providing great (I mean GREAT!) tone. The older it gets, the better it sounds. I believe Tom Scholz used a D40 on the first Boston album.

Never have had to use it.

I've been playing guitar for about 30 years. I own a Washburn Woodstock (which I bought when I retired this guitar), a Strat copy, a Series 10 Bass, and a Sigma Classical; a Music Man RD110-50, a Fender Acoustasonic Jr., plus a Yamaha 4track cassette porta-studio. If this guitar was stolen I'd look for another used one until I found it, but probably could not justify the bucks to buy a new one. I love the tone and playability of this guitar, plus it has TONS of sentimental value. It looks like crap, but to me that is okay. Don't know much about Guild guitars today, but I worked in a music store in the late '70s early '80s and had opportunity to play Guilds back-to-back with Gibsons and Martins. At the time, Guilds were every bit as good as Martins and WAY better than Gibsons (Gibson was owned by Norlin at the time, and I believe they are much better now than 20-25 years ago, altho perhaps overpriced).