Morley ABY Switch

It's easy to hook up, but if you want the LEDs to light up, they could do a lot to improve the battery access. Once you get the screws undone, you still need a screwdriver or something to pry off the back panel to get at the battery hookup.

I noticed a barely noticeable drain off my top end when I hooked this in line with my . There were no pops or anything. I tried it in several spots in my signal chain both before, after and in my new skb pedalboard, and depending on the configuration I had it in, it either slighty increased my background 60 Hz buzz off my strat or had no effect.

Only used it for a couple of weeks, but no reliability issues.

Didn't need them.

I can't compare it to other ABY switches, but if you want to run a signal into either of two outputs, or vice versa, I think this thing would do the job pretty well. Are there better boxes out there that do this? Probably, but I haven't tried any others out.

Extremely simple to operate.

Absolute garbage. I attempted to use this to switch between/combine 2 amps. Signal bleed, obvious tone degradation. Why bother, when you can buy an ABY from a dozen other makers for not much more?

If you only use it as a tuner mute, it is acceptable. But then... why use a big, heavy ABY box for a tuner mute? Heck, buy a Korg Pitchblack tuner and enjoy the true bypass.

Mine seemed to work fine, seemed solidly constructed. Many of the reviewers below had bad experiences. I couldn't keep it long enough for it break down.

No experience. It seemed to work as intended, so I saw no point in contacting them.

I play loud rock & roll, for about 35 years now. The rest of my rig is probably irrelevant for this review. It seems to me that an ABY switch ought to do one thing only, and do it flawlessly. For $50, this is terrible product. For 50 cents, I'd use it as a doorstop. Sad.

This thing makes a loud *POP* when you change channels!
I have eliminated everything from my chain and this is the problem. If there is signal going through the amp when I change channels get a really loud pop and the other people in the band look at me like I am crazy for doing on purpose.
I agree that is does not affect the overall tone a significant manner. I just can deal with the pop!

I emailed tech support and they said it was working fine and the do not guarantee these against popping when channel switching. At least they emailed me back.

Don???t buy this and get a better aby box!

Pretty straight forward pedal. Pedal works great and is built like a tank. Very nice, smooth switching. No manual, it is not needed.... I do wish the battery was a little quicker to change, but that is hardly nothing since it is not required to use this product.

I am using this to switch between a Peavey 6505+ and a 79 Fender Vibrolux. I mainly use a Peavey Wolfgang guitar, and sometimes a G&L Tele. And sometimes A Peavey 5150 combo. In any combonation, this pedal works great. It is very quite and has a nice smooth transaction between amps. I don't hear any "extra" noise from this pedal, just the normal hiss from a "high gain" amp.

Have only had it for about a week, but like all Morley products, it is built very well. I would not consider having a backup.

Don't know. Haven't ever dealt with them. Seems pretty nice though, I have seen some of their people post on here.

I looked at some other A/B boxes, I liked this one because of the 1 into 2, and the price was great. I would replace it if it were lost or stolen for sure.

I rated sound with 5 because there is a noticeable sound degradation due to the signal leakage through the 100K resistors that links the positive signal to ground in each channel.

I just cut the Chanel A 100 k resistor (NOT THE 12 K RESISTOR THAT RELATES TO THE LIGTHS) and I received in that channel a total clean signal, with no loss of tone of any kind, that I feed directly to my mesa bogie amp.
I left Chanel B without modification because I use effects in that channel that obviously alter my tone.

Good Luck

I bought this pedal to replace my Boss A-B switch cause the Morley has 2 switches. One controls either A or B and the other controls A& B on or off. I have two effects loops running into two amps. I like this switch. It came with no manual but a little info on the box is all you really need.

This is very quiet. I have 2 loops on my pedal board. It all starts with my SKB pedal board, my Ibanez Weeping Deamo Wah into my Fender Tuner. Loop A has a Boss Noise Suppressor, Marshall EVH Compressor, and a Boss Overdrive OD3 pedal. Loop B has a MXR EVH Phaser 90 , and an Ibanez 808 Reissue Overdrive pedal. I use 2 different tube amps. One is my Peavey Windsor Single channel 120 watt amp and Cab and my other is a Peavey Valve King Combo amp 100 watts into my Marshall Avt. 412 cab.

I have read some of the rewiews that said that it was not reliable but I have not had any trouble with it. But I am not heavy footed either. Any switch will wear out if you stomp on it. I feel very strongly that I could depend on it in the long run.

I've not had to use it.

I have been playing for over 20 yrs. and I try to buy things that I will use on a regular basis. I have 4 guitars presently. I own a Gibson Premium Plus guitar, An Epiphone Ace Frehley Les Paul, an Epiphone Tony Iommi SG, and a Takamine Acoustic, electric. I play late 60's to late 80's Rock and Blues. The only thing I wish it had was a plug to hook it up to my pedal board. I hate to change batteries.

Works great, it is a very simple unit. I use it to switch between to amps and one guitar with effects pedal.

Crystal clear like it isnt even there!

never failed me and I bought it used

I called them regarding an older model of this to find out some differnces with the new and they were very helpfull

It is exactly waht I wanted. The only thing is that the led stays on unless you unplug the input cable. It would be cool if they found another way to turn the led on and off.

pretty easy, doesn't come with instructions, but if you need instructions for something this simple how did you ever figure out that you can get a switch to run one guitar through two amps or one guitar through two amps?

No noticable cut in sound quality. I've heard of popping noises, but i didn't have any. (i use a Vox ac30 and an Orange ad30 head)

BROKE IN A MATTER OF HOURS! GLAD I DIDN'T MOUNT IT INTO THE PEDAL BOARD! SO PISSED!

Didn't bother calling, I'm bringing it back. Should have never happened. considering I didn't sue it that much seems senseless, they have already lost my trust.

I give it a 1 because stuff needs to work. End of the story, and I barely did anything to it and it broke.

Easy to use with one caveat. The equipment you're plugging into this thing should all be high impedance meaning at least 20 k ohm resistivity at all frequencies. The reason will be told below.

If it's working, okay.

Out of the box, I noticed the same thing other people did. I tried to have two guitars go into a single amp, and the level dropped considerably. I sent it back to Morley, and they replaced the 10k resister to 1 meg and the situation improved considerably. 10k is too low of a shunt to ground in my opinion. Many pickups have impedance in 47 k range. 10 k will eat up about 30% of the voltage not counting the amplifier load (assuming amplifier input resistance is very high). 1 Meg resistor should be the standard. I haven't used it long so I don't know about reliability at this point.

Morley was very courtious. One of few manufacturer who actually have a working customer service in my opinion.

I have a serious problem with the owners manual. It shows that you can use this box either as two sources to one output or one source to two outputs. It only talks about not connecting a speaker wire to it. Okay, then some may try to use it as a combiner for two effect devices. Big trouble. The outputs of the two effects devices will short each other out. It probably won't destroy them, but it sure won't work. Owner's manual have no warnings about hooking up two effects devices in this manner. I was tempted to use this box in this manner, and checked out the schematic (good that Morley have them ready on their site) and I found out about this.

Just a switch.

Transparent. No detectable noise.

Broke the second time I used it. Same problem as previously report. Switch stuck on the "B" position; no longer functions

Will return it to GitMart.

Sorry, I'd like to like this. It seems solid enough. All metal construction, looks robust. I'm really suprised it broke. Seems pretty bulletproof.

Very easy to use. Its an ABY what do you expect. Jacks a little tight, but I like that.

Sounds fine to me. No degredation that I can tell.

Not reliable at all. POS. I have busted two of these quite easily. The first I allowed as a fluke, the second "died" on the first song of the first gig I used it for. For some reason the A/B switch goes out and is stuck on B, the Both switch still works though, but I can't switch between A and B. Not acceptable. For the same thing to happen to both units is releflective of the product in general I think.

Have not delt with Morley, its cheap so I am not going to bother. Banjo Center should give me back my money on the second one.

Very dissapointing. I liked the Morley because the switches were spaced wide so no accedental button pushes, but it broke so I don't care. Going change up my rig so I don't need an ABY.

The Morley ABY is easy to figure out and use. But, understanding the signal changes that it's causing can be frustrating at first...more on that later.

I bought the Morley so I could use my Laney GH100L and Mesa Dual Rectifier Tremoverb half-stacks at the same time. This is where understanding the grounds/signal changes comes into play. The first time I used it switching from one amp to the other was fine. Then I tried both amps at the same time and I got a loud buzz. I assumed it was a faulty pedal. I took it apart, checked all the wires and connections but couldn't find anything wrong with it. I put it back together and didn't use it for a while. A few months later I tried it again, same result.

I posted my problem on a guitar forum where I knew a few knowledgeable guitar shop guys would see it. One suggested it was a grounding problem between the amps. He said it was easy to test the grounding theory.

Have both amps on. If one of your two amps has 2 input jacks, plug the guitar into one jack as normal. Then run a cable from that amp's 2nd input jack to the other amp. If you hear a buzz/hum when the two are connected, it's a grounding problem with the amps being linked together. I tried the test and that was the problem I was having.

He said there are two ways to to fix it. First, sometimes plugging both amps into the same outlet in a room will fix the problem. I was already using the same outlet, so that wasn't it. The second solution is to plug one amp into the wall as normal, but then plug the 2nd amp into a cheap $3 2-prong cheater, and then the outlet, which eliminates that amp's ground connection. When both amps are connected to the ABY switch, the whole connection is working from one amp's ground. It fixed my buzz/hum problem.

Now that the problem is solved I don't notice any major sound changes/problems when using the ABY. I don't have any problems with popping when switching channels either.

As long as I have my little cheater plug with me I'm not worried to use the ABY. The ABY pedal itself is metal and virtually unbreakable. And I don't think you even need to use a battery. If I remember correctly the battery is only for the LED indicators, so if you don't care about the LEDs working you don't even need a battery.

I remember when I first got it and was frustrated with the buzzing I emailed the company about something or another and they replied quickly. That was few years ago. I haven't needed to contact them since.

Since I'm trying to reduce the amount of equipment I use, I don't play two amps at the same time much anymore, but it still works when I need it and it's one of the cheaper ABYs available.

The unit if fool proof for my application. Just switching btwn two amps. No manual necessary.

Never noticed a buzz, a pop when swiching, or any tone sucking. I run it to switch btwn a Marshall JCM900 and a Fender bassman. The bassman is used to power a dunlop/heil talkbox unit. I would notice any popping since the heil sound comes thru the PA and montior system. I rarely use the Y function.

I don't back up any pedals at this point, just fly by the seat of my pants and if it don't work: overcome and improvise. This is a switch and only a switch. Not too much to say about that, it works or it don't. I do tend to take the term "stomp" a little to seriously when it comes to stomp boxes and this tends to be havoc on the actual switch but this happens on all my boxes sooner or later.

I found them to be very helpful and answered all my questions quickly. Sent me what I needed at no charge and told me to call with any more questions/or problems. If you are supporting a company by buying their product, why not give them a chance to answer/solve your problems?

simple simon ease of use, requires 2 guitars and 1 amp, or 1 guitar and 2 amps, cables and Dr. Seus level of intelligence. I use it with 1 guitar and 2 amps. This pedal allows you to use amp A, or amp B or both amps simultaneously. There is a battery which has long life span located on the bottom, easy to get to with normal screwdriver and no machinists trade school certificate required ha!

excellent! I bought this pedal in 1995. At that time used it with fender hot rod deluxe, and line 6 amp, guitar at that time was fender american strat, cables George L. I dumped both these amps (yech) and currently play gibson nighthawk or schecter PT custom with Fender concert amp and my trusty roland jazz chorus 120, again with George L cables. I experience NO pops, NO hum, NO noise, smooth quiet operation, a joy to use. Most of the time I use the A AND B feature, as the fender and roland complement each other beautifully, like a good marriage ha!. Good price/quality ratio 9.8 on the Reichter scale of happiness.

For me it has been and is totally reliable, has never failed me, never made an annoying noise, don't need backup, I just bring spare battery just in case, but the box has been running for 10 years with intermittent use on the original battery, probably will still be working long after I am dead. No loss of tone experienced, built solid, I like the button locations, I like the distance that the buttons are raised from the surface, I like the size of the pedal, well you get the idea chum, dont'cha?

never needed customer support

the style of music I play is irrelevant to this pedal's use, it is impervious to playing style. I would like this pedal to make me coffee on request, but alas, morley will not consider my request.

Mine didn't even come with a manual- just a little diagram that shows the signal flow options......

I bought this yesterday. I willl be returning it today. It just does not do what it says it can.... I didn't buy this to switch b/w amps (as far as i can tell it works great for that) i needed this to have two guitars going into one output at the same time..... but....this box is NOT a mixer. it cut my signal in half. get an ehx mini mixer.

oh yeah- both my guitars were hitting their own ernie ball volume pedal before the morley. it was actually sending the A guitar back through the B guitar's vol. pedal. impedance....contrary to what morley advertises -without some sort of buffer, this box can't effectively send 2 guitars down to 1 output.

i play a parker fly and a fretless steinberger 7 string through a 8 rack space line6 rockman
emulator into a peavey heritage and a line6 pod emulator. it's perfect for the grunge type music i play sometimes.

looks solid enough. i didn't manage to break it in the 24 hours i owned it.

this pedal is extremely easy to use, whether you are combining two inputs to one, or splitting one input signal to two outputs...simply keep track of your ins and outs....keep the battery fresh to let you know what's happening via the led's....easy.....

may reviewers have complained of pop when switching, or tone degradation...i have had none of these problems...it may very well depend upon how you use the thing.....

my son was using it as part of his bass rig, and complained to me that a jack had failed, but it turned out to be erroneous...the pedal has never broken down....

as mentioned previously, we had thought that there was a failure in one of the jacks...when i inquired about a replacement to morley, they sent me not one, but two replacements free of charge, and very quickly....they were simply wonderful....

i use the pedal in a signal chain configured as follows:


|----->Digitech RP14D----->
guitar------>homemade y-splitter cable|
|---->Boss GT5----------->


--------RP14D---->|
|morley a/b/y---------->fender blues jr. or
-------GT5------->| peaver classic 50/212


this rig makes it possible to use sounds from both processors either singly, or together, and route a mono signal to the amp....with onstage micing, one amp is the simplest thing, and one small miced amp is all anyone needs...i have had very good results with this setup....i have been playing and teaching for 35 years, and have had a great deal of expreience with all sorts of gear....this pedal does exactly what i want it to....no more, and no less....

unless you have identical leads bundled like a plate of spaghetti it's almost impossible to get wrong. there is an option to have battery power to indicate the channel in use but if you can't hear well...................

i have a tele fmt and taylor 514ce going into pedal board (overdrive>distortion>phaser>autowah>tremelo>chorus>delay)this is plugged into the morley aby with A going to a hotrod deluxe and B to AER 60. this allows me to play acoustic through the same effects such as phaser or tremelo which i use for both electric and acoustic. it also allows me to use both amps together to give some electric clean sounds some extra top end via the AER.

there is absolutely no loss of power or tone, neither is there any additional noise, hiss pops or anything else at any volume

its totally solid with nothing to go wrong so no backup needed

never needed to contact

play all sorts for 25 years, does the job perfectly so i would get another one. its certainly made swopping electric to acoustic between songs incredibly easy

Simple-plug in whatever you want to split and there you go.

I have had no "tone sucking" occurances with my unit(s). There really isn't any way for this thing to load or screw up your circuit; all there is are two switches attaching three outputs. People who are having noise or tone suckage should:

(1) Change your patch cables or instrument cables!! I have "isolated" many tone problems for both myself and other people by replacing the five-year-old patch cable that they have stepped on, thrown in the back of their amplifier/guitar case/gig bag/duffle bag/etc. or generally abused--then they wonder why there's a hum or buzz or static that wasn't there five years ago.

(2) Replace the battery that enables the LEDs to work. A dead/dying battery can screw up your sound integrity very easily.

I use my first ABY so I can switch between my harp mic (harmonica to all you non-blues cats) and my guitar(s). A is for harp, B is for guitar, in/out port goes to the rest of my effects.

I recently purchased a second ABY to use as a channel switcher for my 63RI Fender Vibroverb (brownface with 2x10 speakers). That way I can adjust my tone (and compensate for different output levels) between harp and guitar more easily.

This unit does not add any sound quallity, but it doesn't detract from it, either.

I have used one of my ABYs for over three years of regular abuse--no problems. I have (and will) continue to gig without a backup.

Never dealt with Morley. I did at one time, own a A/B/C swither that they made, but it didn't do what I wanted, so Guitar Center took it back, no questions asked. I then bought the ABY.

I play guitar/slide guitar/harp/vox in a Texas Roadhouse band called THE SCREAMIN' ARMADILLOS. (Blues+classic rock+outlaw country=Texas Roadhouse music). The fact that I have to change between instruments quickly makes this device indispensible.

I use it with various Lee Oskar and Hohner harmonicas through an 1940's Astatic S200 microphone in input A, or;
62RI Fender Stratocaster, Fender Telecaster (modded to Esquire specs), G&L F-100, or Danelectro DC3 guitar into input B;
this is plugged into my other effects, and all into a 63RI Fender Vibroverb.

Easy. Plug in one amp to A and one to B. Plug your guitar in and you are good to go

I thought it drained some of my signal.

Seems sturdy enough. But I'm taking it back because I still hear the signal bleed in Amp A when the signal to it is off and I am routing to Amp B.

N/A

Doesn't really do what it is supposed to. When I am playing one amp the other should be completely silent. I really don't have the hum everyone talks about though. If you can stand a little signal bleed to the amp you are not using then this is for you.

Bill Wenzloff from Morley here again. If you are having any problems with Ground Loop Hum, it is because of mismatched ground potentials on your amplifiers. There are a few easy ways to diagnose the problem and easy ways to fix the problem. If anyone is interested, give me a call Toll Free at 800-284-5172 ext 12. Being educated beats simply giving up.

Also, if you have any problem with gear, always try to get help from the company that makes the product. In most cases, you'll be glad you did.

Keep the reviews coming (good and bad)! We read them all and take your opinions very seriously.

C'mon,

Not to hate on Morley, but this thing is horrible. Not only do i own one but I actually own two. Same outcome on both. Massive hum, and huge "pops" when i switch. I bought the second one to give Morley the benefit of the doubt. I play through a Peavey Classic 30 and 5150. I can actually touch the pedal(grounding it) and it stops. Some may say it's my equipment but my amps have normal hum without the Morley being used, and i have used it with several different rigs and guitars and again it's the same outcome. I used my friends switch and 'POOF' the hum was gone.

It has never failed on me, I will give it that. But I am getting a Switch from StarTouch to replace it. I can't handle the problems any more. I can only give a 5 due to its well-known problems.

I have never dealt with customer care but after seeing them post on here I feel they are not very customer oriented. Instead of addressing the actual problems (maybe a recall) They instead make suggestions about your rig.

Overall, I would say get something else. So far i have really spent around $120.00 dollars buying two of them, thinking that maybe I had damaged the first one. I can't speak for everyone but seriously i bought two and they did the same thing. Don't waste your money on this product, you will not be happy.

*I have to say this* To those who are getting pissed' and calling others "whiney" get the F@&K on somewhere. This is a place for opinions and reviews. Don't be shitty because someones opinion doesn't agree with yours. HC has helped me make decisions on equipment because of honest people who come here and say their piece, good or bad.

easy to use

the input should not be between the two outputs however....just makes my cords a messier situation

I don't notice any signal loss or bleed over.

What I do notice is a loud "pop" sound from my amps when switching either channel on or off. I can't tolerate it during living performance but at home.....who cares?

If it were lost I would look for something else.....

I've been playing since 1969. I play in our church now every Sunday night.

I don't own this pedal, and have no intention of EVER coming near one of 'em.

I am posting this as a DIRECT challenge to Mr. Bill Wenzloff's recommendation of converting the 3 prong SAFETY plug of an amplifier to a 2-prong non-earthed plug.

See, I know that the safety ground prong (the third one) of an electrical plug is tied directly to the amp's chassis. That means that in the event of a major short to the chassis, the current will hopefully flow straight to the earth, and save everything plugged into the amp (read: YOU and your instrument)

Now, suppose for a second that you defeated that third prong with an adaptor as Mr. Wenzloff has suggested. You have the amp plugged into the switchbox, and are currently running with only that amp enabled. If a catastrophic short happens within that amp's circuits, guess where 4 or 5 HUNDRED DC volts are heading? Yup, right for ya, buddy! And don't think for one second that your house/venue's circuit breaker will save you, either. The filter capacitors on an amp hold enough juice in 'em to STILL give you a very rude jolt at the VERY least, if you're VERY lucky.

If you happen to be running both amps at once, there's a CHANCE that the voltage would go to the second amp, and from there to earth, in which case, you'd likely wreck an amp, but hopefully live.

At any rate, I want to know how you can explain this, "Sir". Because I can't see why in the world you'd be putting your customers lives in jeopardy for the sake of a shoddy product.

To everyone reading this: Think long and hard about what I just finished writing here...

Good day.

I looked at a schematic for this pedal. I've never actually tried one but... On each "output",(for the older units, anyway) there is a 100k resister to ground. I know that guitarists trying to push their preamps hard will be dissatisfied with any signal loss. Cutting that resister out of the circuit might help and is possibly causing some signal bleed under some circumstances (I doubt it). I suspect that some complaints about the signal loss are coming from people who put a passive guitar straight into the aby. 100k resister loss plus signal splitting loss. Maybe I'm wrong. I'd be interested in seeing an online response from Morley.

I've talked to the people at Morley about a different issue and they were very patient and helpful.

self-explanatory :)

no extra noise or signal degradation! I use it on my pedal board to bypass my Morley Power Wah Boost (doesn't have true bypass). To do this I run from my effects loop send to the input on my ernie ball volume pedal, to my Electro Harmonix big muff pi (it has true bypass), to my Boss Chorus, to the input on the Morley ABY. Then one output goes into the input of my Morley PWB and the other goes directly to the amp's effects loop return. I use a split instrument cable to go back to the amp... I have the cable connected between the output of my PWB and the second output of my Morley ABY switch. When I press the "A or B" button on the ABY switch, it truly bypasses my PWB... that way I don't have to push both buttons on the PWB and rock the treadle forward when not in use. My drummer was impressed with my quick thinking, but I am mechanically inclined.

backups are cool to have, but I don't have one and never needed one yet!

as stated in my review for the PWB (power wah boost pedal) I've had wonderful service and great interaction with Morley

see my Power Wah Boost review,... I'm too lazy to keep typing it!