G&L Tribute L-2000

2008 G&L TRIBUTE L-2000 INDONISIAN MADE. SUNBURST WITH PADDED GIG BAG

I REALLY LOVE THE MANY CONFIGURATIONS YOU CAN DO WITH THIS BASS GUITAR, BEEN PLAYING FOR SO LONG AND AS ANYBODY ELSE WOULD KNOW WHAEN YOU DO LOTS OF GIGS IN DIFFERENT PLACES YOU ALSO GO THRU ALL KINDS OF AMPS. THIS IS WHERE THE BASS EXCELLS IT S LIKE IT ADOPTS TO ANY AMPS SPECIALLY THE ONES THAT ARE BOOMY A FLICK OF A SWITHCH AND WALAAAAA YOUR IN HOG HEAVEN NICE I MEAN SOLID SOUND TIGHT AND OHHH SO CLEAN I LOVE IT FULL BRIGHT AND CRISP

MINE CAME A LITTLE BIT HIGH DID SOME TWEAKING AND ADJUSTED THE ROD AND WALA LIKE BUTTER NICE SMOOTH AND SOFT, WORD OF WISDOM CHANGE YOUR STRINGS TO FLAT BRIGHT OH MAMA HOCHI MAMA NICE EVN SOUNDS BETTER.

THE BASS LOOKS AND FEELS STURDY HAD IT FOR A YEAR KNOW AND SO FAR NO PROBLEMS HAD SO MANY G&Ls GROWING UP NEVER HAD ANY PROBLEMS WELL DONE MR FENDER, I NEVER GIG WITHOUT A BACK UP LIKE TRYING TO GO FOR A LONG DRIVE WITHOUT NO SPARE TIRE ,

HAVENT AND THANK GOD NEVER DEALT WITH THEM YET, LIVING THIS ALONE

LOOKS LIKE A SOLID BASS EVERYBODY HAS THERE OWN SOUND AND TECHNIQUE FOR ME THIS IS A NICE BASS I HAVE A FENDER P USA MADE AND A MUSICMAN WHICH COST REDICOLOUS FOR A WORKING MUSICIAN THIS WILL COME SIDE BY SIDE WITH THEM ANY TIME ANYWHERE OR ID SAY IT HAS ITS GOOD SIDES TO AND OWN FLAVOR AND SOUND HIGH QUALITY

Mine was a korean '07 4 string with dual humbuckers. There are so many tonal options with this thing! There are 3 toggles: one is a 3 way for passive/active/active bright, the second is a two way for series/parallel, and the third is a three way for pickup selection. It also boasts hi and low cut knobs next to the master volume. Using all the combinations of these you can come up with any tone under the sun. It's almost too much!

I thought that the sound was great, but even if I didn't like one tone, I could always dial in dozens of others. I found it sounds the best for funk and slap styles, but you can always darken it up a bit and switch to series mode for a richer deep bass sound.

Everything came pretty good from the factory. The finish on the neck could have been better, but the body was great. The battery/electronics cover scratches real easily.

Everything about this is solid, way more than what I'd expect from a lot of overseas instruments. It's pretty heavy too... it doesn't feel cheap in any way and I'm sure will last a long time. What's nice too is that you don't have to worry about a backup on a gig, because if the battery goes dead, you always have passive mode! The only complaint would be that the finish on the neck might wear thin with a lot of playing.

Never had to.

This is one of those rare instances where you get bang for buck (plus some) from non-american instruments. I highly recommend it.

Well, you can read the other reviews for this. Mine is a Swamp Ash version. It's quite light. The body is two pieces and the woodgrain is nice. It looks a bit 70's/80's. No the prettiest base I have ever seen, but I would buy a painting if you want to look at something pretty. The neck is, as far as I can tell, one piece and that makes it different from a "real" L-2000 where they make the necks from more pieces to eliminate the bowing of the neck when they started building this bass. But this neck is fine, this does remind me to give the rosewood fretboard some TLC with oil to prevent moisture getting in or out of the neck. 8 because of the design, it's very straightforward, which could also be seen as a plus.

Great sounds. You can switch from nice a P-bass passive sound, to a double humbucker sound (new MM Sterling?). Very versatile (I haven't owned one more versatile).

Pretty good. I bought it second hand and the previous owner probably did a good job setting it up.

Everything looks solid, the guy that designed seemed to have known what he was doing :-)

Never dealt with them.

This is a very nice bass, I am not using it to it's full potential. I owned quite a few basses (Warwick Fortress one, Gibson EB-3, AMPEG DA, OLP, could use a Neuser Courage for a while) and tried several more. I wanted to try a G&L and when this Tribute came a long I was very surprised and knew I had to buy it. It's money well spent, I would spent the money I save on lessons to learn some tricks from people I like. This bass does the job, make some music and stop staring at those pretty basses that will disappoint you (and you sound guy) when you play them in a band. OK, I still want that Wal bass, but that one isn't a beauty either :-) and it's at least 5 times the money I spent on this one. The G&L pick ups remind me of the Wal PUs by the way.

I've been playing the bass guitar for about a year and owned four bass guitars prior to buying the G&L. I did lots of shopping around, a lot of side by side comparisons and finally my wife told me, "Go get any bass you want, I don't care what it costs, just go get one that you like."

I found the G&L Tribute L-2000 at an independent guitar store. The owner kept bringing out different basses, so I could compare them side by side. My wife has a better musical ear than I have and every time I tried a different brand and then switched back to the G&L, we both felt the G&L had a richer tone, better sustain and more distinctive notes. I joked with the store owner that I was actually a little disappointed because I was prepared to spend a lot more money.

The action was very good. I can't stand any fret buzz even though numerous sales people at the large music stores had told me it doesn't matter as long as it doesn't get amplified. My question was, "if the string is hitting the fret, doesn't that limit the sustain?" Unfortunately, when I got home and I could try the guitar in the quiet room, I discovered that all the strings were buzzing above the 21st fret and no amount of bridge adjustment would make it go away.

After talking to the dealer and trying a few more things, I emailed G&L's repair department and to my surprise they called me. Once they realized that this was not just an adjustment problem, they offered to pay for the shipping and have me return the bass to them. Again I was surprised when it only took two weeks for them to do the repair. What they did was replace the entire neck and it's beautiful. They even put a new set of strings on it.

When you are shopping for a bass, I recommend that you take a bass guitar into the acoustic guitar area of the store. Often times this is a separate room with a door. People will wonder what you are doing in there, but it's the only place you can really "hear" the bass.

Rock solid.

Read the above. Excellent.

PICKUPS-2 Fullerton-made G&L Magnetic Field Design humbucking pickups
BODY WOOD-Swamp Ash
NECK WOOD-Hard Rock Maple with Maple fingerboard
NECK RADIUS-12" (304.8mm)
NECK WIDTH AT NUT-1 3/4" (44.5mm)
TUNING KEYS-Open-back traditional tuners
BRIDGE-G&L Saddle Lock bridge with nickel plated die-cast saddles.
CONTROLS-G&L Tri-Tone active/passive electronics, 3-way mini-toggle pickup selector, series/parallel mini-toggle, preamp control mini-toggle (off/on/on with high frequency EQ boost)
(info from G&L website)
I don't know the year, probably 2004 or 2005.

I've gotten just about any sound I can think of from this bass. Low, fat & beefy to crunchy slap. I run this through an SWR Bass 350 with Hartke 410 cab and add an 18" custom made cab when I need the extra boom. When you turn on the active electronics it roars.

I've had this bass for nearly two years, bought it new from Bass Northwest in Seattle with the factory strings and set up. They offer free set up for life, and so far, I haven't needed it. I love the action, low and easy with absolutely no string or fret buzz.
The finish is a natural swamp ash blonde, a beauty (just like the Mrs.). I chose the maple fingerboard and love it. I play this nearly everyday and so far, there is not a scratch on it.

As mentioned before, I play the G&L just about everyday, I like to practice a lot. For gigs, I can't imagine a reason to use a backup, unless tragedy strikes!
I've seen a couple of players write about the need for a strap lock, personally I've had no problems in that area.
The neck has remained straight, I'll take it in soon, but only for a check up and new strings, and that's after constant use for nearly 2 years.

Haven't needed it, and that's a good sign.

I played for a time with a group that included a singer who also played bass, each time he used my G&L, he raved about it.
Before I purchased this bass, I shopped, I mean I SHOPPED, did my research, made phone calls, talked to luthiers, you name it. I knew how much I wanted to spend and I wanted to get my money's worth. I simply could not be happier.
Everyone I spoke with told me the Tribute line was indentical to the American made GL's, except that the bodies were cut by laser guided machines in Korea vs. by hand in Fullerton. One luthier and shop owner claimed the Tributes were actually more precise as a result and a far better value. The instrument was set up in the US before sale.
If it were stolen, lost or it sprouted legs and ran off to seek its fortune, I would definitely buy a new one, no hesitation.
Honestly, if the American made G&L L-2000 is better than this, it must be a slice of heaven.

This is a brand-new Tribute by G&L L2000 4-string electric bass guitar. The set-up check list attached to it was dated 4/10/06, so it really is new. It was made in Korea.

21 frets (up to high E on the G string, higher than I'll ever go)on a 34" scale. The neck is a single piece of maple with a separate maple fingerboard, satin finish front and back, with rather large black position dots at the usual frets. The fingerboard has a 12" radius, which is a bit flatter than a Precision (9.5" for modern ones, 7.5" for vintage), and the nut is 1-3/4". The neck bolts on, which restricts access to the very highest frets, but for me that's no problem. The tuners are traditional open-back, 4 on a side, just like your dad's old Precision.

The body is a single piece of swamp ash, with a clear gloss finish (as someone already noted, like glass). It is shaped like a Precision Bass, but with the slightly longer neck. It has a deeply contoured cutout for your ribcage and a smaller piece dressed away for your forearm, just like almost every Fender since 1954. No pickguard: it's a very clean looking instrument: this one is all blonde, with black pickups and chrome hardware.

Two active/passive humbuckers, 3 pairs of switches and knobs. From the neck end to the bridge, it has a pickup selector switch and a master volume, a series/parallel switch and a treble control, a switch that selects passive/active/active with treble boost, and a bass control. When an active mode is selected, the treble and bass controls act as boost and cut; in passive mode, as cut only.

The bridge is a solid chrome-plated casting, with very substantial adjustable saddles, and built-in string anchors and a screw for locking down the saddles. No string-through-body option.

It came with allen wrenches for the truss rod and to adjust the pickup and bridge. It was enclosed in a gigbag that had the warranty in one of the pockets. G&L's website yielded a schematic for the switch and knob functions, and a wiring diagram.

I'm not a fan of gigbags, so I ordered it with a hard tweed case. That is not included in what I paid for the bass.

Besides the handsome good looks, the focus of this bass is the versatile electronic system. It has essentially replaced 3 of my other basses, of which more below. It rates a 10.

My bass playing has evolved over the years into a style that's fairly unobtrusive. I like to add a fat bottom to the chord progression and help out the drums. Not a very revolutionary approach, but it depends on having a bass with a particular combination of presence, roundness of tone, and a warmth that makes it sound like an organic part of the song. The closest I have ever found is my Squier II Precision, with a Seymour Duncan Quarter Pound pickup. That is, until I got the Tribute. It took a weekend of tinkering to get pretty close, then at rehearsal last night I nailed it.

Unlike the P, the L2000 also has the ability to sound more like a Jazz bass, but for my taste, adding in treble makes the sound a little honky. That may be due to the Hartke speakers. I really haven't begun to explore the range. I expect to find a number of useful sounds.

I am playing this bass through an Ampeg B100R and a Musicman HD130/Hartke XL410 stack. No tweeters, no modern sound, no hiss, no quack. That's what I like. The bass is dead silent, including the switching. I have read others have had scratchy pots, but those are easy to replace with something better.

This is a knob-turner's bass. Comparing it, again, with my Precision, I would say that the P sounds GOOD, and all you have to worry about is whether you want it softer or louder. The L2000 requires that you hunt around and find the sound you want, but the very clever control setup makes it pretty easy to do that. I suggest any new owner do what I did, and sit down with it for a couple of days and try dialing in the sounds you want. Soon enough you'll learn what does what, and then it's clear sailing.

Another aside: Matt Alexander, below, advocates the use of ground wound-round strings. The L2000 came strung up with some cheapo roundwounds (the low E rattled on the first 3 frets) so I immediately tied on a set of GHS Brite Flats. I had not checked the intonation before I changed out the strings, but the saddles required quite a bit of adjustment before they were intonated. This isn't unusual in going from roundwounds to this kind. WIth roundwounds, you may have a slightly different tonal experience.

Overall, I'll rate it a 9 since I haven't quite found a percussive sound I like.

Everything was nearly perfect, with the sole exception of the stripped strap button screwhole. I glued in a round toothpick to give the screw something to bite into, then replaced the standard strap button with a Dunlop straplock (the kind with the leather loop). This makes it easy to thread your cord through the loop to keep it out of harm's way, and it's something I add to all of my basses. The stripped hole, by the way, is not at all unusual in new instruments.

The fit of the neck in the pocket was very tight, no flaws anywhere in the glass-like finish on the body; no buzzes on the neck, no uneven or untrimmed fret ends, and nice action. It came with just the right amount of relief in the neck, and this is something easily ignored with mass manufacturers. In fact, everything relating to playability was perfectly adjusted.

It's a beautiful bass. I'm a fool for natural finish/maple fingerboards, and I almost would have bought this just to look at, if it weren't such a playable beast.

It is not one of those basses with all the figured wood and fancy inlays: it's a player's instrument, rather than a pretty face.

Very solidly made. G&L stresses the construction on their website, but it is worth noting that there are differences between the US-made G&Ls and the offshore Tributes. The neck on G&L is made of a piece of maple that has been split, one side reversed, routed for the truss rod, and then glued back together. The Tribute neck, on the other hand, is made of a single piece, which is routed beneath the fingerboard for the rod. I have read of people who bought used Tributes on eBay, only to find that they had twisted necks; on the other hand, you won't hear from all the people who had no problems. Since bass necks have been made this way for going on 60 years, I'm not going to lose any sleep over it.

It's easily as durable as any of my other basses. Note that I'm no Pete Townshend: I don't throw my instruments around, they all reside in hard cases and get taken care of.

This will go to the gig without a backup, unless I determine that the material calls for another one of my basses in addition to this one.

No experience.

I've been playing since 1970, bass since 1981. I own everything from acoustic guitars to Les Pauls to a pedal steel, and have 5 basses and 3 bass amps, and I run a digital project recording studio.

It is useful to compare this bass to my other solid bodies: I own a Carvin LB20, all mahogany, with DiMarzio Model J pickups. It has an ebony fingerboard with a 12" radius and a 1-5/8" nut, and 24 frets: overall it feels very much like the L2000. The neck is too long for me: I prefer the 21 fret neck on the Tribute. Its sound is a lot more aggressive, and it can't attain that "round, rich, P" sound. The Squier II Precision has a maple neck, 9-1/2" radius, and a 1-5/8" nut, with 20 frets. This one has quite a different feel, with a chunkier neck and a higher-crowned fingerboard. Still, it has that rich, mellow-with-presence P sound that I love. The third bass is a 1981 Korean-made Global, with a custom-cut vee neck, unknown radius fingerboard (although it feels like the P) 1-5/8" nut, and 20 frets. It has Select Bass Humbucker pickups, and a very round and mellow sound. Both the LB20 and the Precision seem to shift around on the strap: the strings aren't always right where I want them. The Global mutt is better, but the body, while thinner, is wider, and it's still a little awkward. The L2000 fits me. It's like when I first picked up the Les Paul I now own: everything was right where I wanted it, it didn't move the wrong direction when I shifted my weight, and I could easily reach the length of the fingerboard.

The Tribute isn't missing anything I need. It has more switches than I'm used to (the P has a volume knob and a tone knob!) but I'm rapidly getting used to it, and it allows a lot of versatility.

If this one were stolen, I'd buy another right away, put Brite Flats and a strap lock on it, and go off and gig some more. In the short time I've had this, it has become indispensible, the only one of my basses I couldn't live without. Add in the low price, and this becomes a bass everyone ought to have! I haven't been this excited over a new instrument since I got the goldtop.

I just wanted to make a string suggestion for great tone. I tried rounds on my Tribute L2K and found the tone too aggressive and bright, even when I used Thomastik Infeld Superalloys. I tried flats, but that wasn't the sound either. The perfect tone, IMHO, from this bass comes from ground-rounds or half-rounds. That's where they make an oversized roundwound string and then grind the surface wrap flat. You get almost the feel of a flat, and the sound is in between flat and round.

I'm using SIT Powerflats on there now, and I love the tone! It's punchy and growly, with almost all of the definition of rounds without the zing. Since the outerwrap has been ground flat you don't get any fingersqueak. Try either SIT Powerflats or GHS Brite Flats. You've got to try these kind of strings on your L2K!

I've been on a tone hunt for the past few years and have traded basses many times. I finally stumbled upon this bass and I'm pretty sure my tone hunt is over! You've got to try one of these - they're the most versatile basses out there!

I got one of the "premium" models which means the body is nicely grained swamp ash. The freboard is maple which goes really well with the amber tinted body lacquer. The tuners are an open gear, vintage style which look good and work well. The bridge is a copy of the massive chrome USA model, and has an allen screw that pushes the saddles together. This serves to cause the bridge to vibrate as one unit, adding to sustain and tone.

The pickups are two USA made G&L Magnetic Field Design Pickups. These are the exact same pickups that they put in their USA made models. These were designed from the ground up by Leo Fender and George Fullerton (of Fender & Musicman fame before they sold both companies and each company's instrument quality subsequently decreased). There's nothing like these pickups on any other brand of bass! They are humbucking and have a tendency to emphasize the midrange in a nice way. They are the hottest passive pickups you'll find - I usually plug this bass into the active input on my amp and it's still as loud as most active basses!

The controls are: volume, treble, bass, pickup selector switch, series/parallel switch, passive/active/active with treble boost switch. You read correctly - a passive bass with treble and bass cut! This is unique! Other passive basses have a tone knob which acts as treble cut. On this bass you can cut treble and bass, and this allows greater tonal variety than other passive basses.

The neck is finished in a satin lacquer and the nut is 1 3/4" wide. This seemed wide at first, but now I'm used to it and it feels good in my fretting hand. If you absolutely need a narrow nut this bass probably isn't for you.

The body and neck are a lot like a precision bass, but with the pickups and electronics this bass has it surpasses all other passive basses in useable features.

Oh, the tone of this bass! I've been searching for this tone! I like a Jazz Bass tone and I like a Precision Bass tone, but alone they seem to limiting. While I can't perfectly match the sound of either a Jazz or Precision, I can get similar tones to both with a few simple switch flicks! In passive series mode the neck pickup sounds a lot like a Precision bass. In passive parallel mode you can get really nice jazz bass tones with either or both pickups. Switching to active mode gives these settings more sheen and power for a more modern tone. If you choose the bridge pickup in series and active/treble boost you get a tone very similar to a Stingray! So, you can see that this is one very versatile bass.

I've got mine strung up with SIT Powerflats and the tone is just heavenly! Beefy with midrange punch. I've got the treble and bass rolled off 1/4 turn, and just by using the switches I can access 18 great and very useable tones. Amazing!

The pickups are bassy but emphasize the mid range, and combined with a swamp ash body and maple fretboard the tone is a bit bright. I wouldn't use stainless steel strings on this thing! Nickle rounds sound really good, but I prefer flats of some type. Great bass foundations without any mud.

I bought this bass used but in almost flawless condition. The setup was done at the shop I bought it from, and I did my own tweaking. Everything was nicely routed, finished, laquered, and applied in the Korean factory where this was made. There are a few flaws, but they're in the wood itself and give the bass character.

This is, however, a Korean made bass. It's nice and very playable, but not USA G&L quality. I'd say it's as nice or nicer than the best made MIM Fender.

Even though this is Korean made, I have no doubt I'll be playing this bass for many years to come! Everything is solid and well made. I put Dunlop Straploks on this bass, and would reccommend them to anybody that doesn't want to drop their bass on stage - my strap's not coming off for nuthin'! I don't have another bass as a backup, but I wouldn't worry about doing so with this bass - if your battery dies it still sounds amazing in passive mode.

I haven't dealt with the company, and so can't comment.

Like I said above, I've been on a tone hunt for "my sound". I've been playing for five years and have owned the following basses:

Carvin LB70P (I've owned two)
MIA Fender Jazz with J-Retro
Fender Roscoe Beck V
Ibanez BTB 405
Lakland Skyline 55-01

None of these gave me the versatility and tone that my G&L Tribute L2000 does. My tone hunt is over, and now I just need to start saving for a USA model!

The active electronics is what separates this bass from all others. There's so many tonal varieties it's incredible. I've used it in several rooms and needed all the versatility the bass has to offer.

The tones are easy to dial in. Passive/Active came in handy when my guitarist needed a battery right in the middle of a gig.

Because o the tonal variety, there's no reason why tocan't use this bass for virtually any musical style. Definately clean enough to use in the studio. Love the sustain, purportedly due to the locking bridge. I think Spectors use this and they're good for sustain as well. Harmonics weren't as good as expected, chords and taps were better than expected.

Neck allows very decent evenness of notes up and down the fretboard. Very little "favoritism" of certain notes, but a little. If you want perfection in that area spend $1,000 more.

In general, it's a little bright. Don't use steel strings on this bass. That of course is personal preference stuff.

Looks very nice and happened to be intonated perfectly from the shop - coulda been luck. In general, the basic set-up was very good. However, the frets were not filed on the sides. I don't know if they "forgot" or what. Maybe somebody wanted to get home. Grrrrrrr. They were quite sharp and I was surprised by the oversight.

Action can be set fairly low w/o buzzing. I play lightly and heavy handed to get the feel, energy, emotion I'm looking for at any given time. The bass articulates well. Slaps and pops pretty well. Victor Wooten would not choose this bass but... well... duh. It does well enough.

You need to like the wide nut (1-3/4). I have a maple neck which I preferr overall to rosewood (the other option). They don't do wenge.

No idea, but I can tell it's pretty much a tank and I'll go out on a limb just a bit and say it's 10. I have it on good authority that the bass is durable - one of the reasons I got it.

Played 3 years as a teen, skipped any years, and now for the past 10 years - all styles except maybe Yoko Ono.

Here's the deal, this bass is what I expected: excellent for the money. It's a very good instrument for a working bassist - not just a backup but as your axe. The tonal variety and general good playability for a resonable price is the reason for getting a bass like this. It shows up well live.

I have an Ibanez ATK300, Yamaha BEX-BS, Alembic Epic, And G&L L-2000 Tribute. I play them all at any given time. Yes, the Alembic is a better instrument. But frankly, when I'm working, I'm not beringing all my basses... that depends on the gig. But I intend to always bring the G&L, that's why I got it. If something happened to it, I wouldn't be out thousands.

You should be able to get one of these basses for $400ish.

IMO, paying double for a USA assembled G&L is a waste. But that's personal preference and if you love a bass, that's what counts.

Made in Korea 07/2003, two piece swamp ash body, maple neck with a rosewood fretboard.
Amber color. Controls Volume/bass/treble, switches: pickups series/parallel, pickup selector, Active off/on/treble boost.
Original US pickups, Korean made electronics.
G&L licensed hardware.

I played a lot of different basses. After 25 years of playing them in different bands i always came to the conclusion that only the Fender(type) basses "work" for me. After buying a "great sounding in the shop" non Fender type of bass i returned it after a couple of months, disappointed in the way that i could not cut trough the band, no matter what i did with my amp.
So back to Fender, and in this case G&L.
This is my first G&L experiment, and i`m happy to say it works, succes!!
It has a lot of different tones, maybe to many for my taste, but they all are very useable.
Lots of round bass, beautifull mids, and a kind of treble that is just right for me. You can play any kind of music with this bass, guaranteed!

Although the bass was new, the setup was reasonable, only lowering of the string height and it was ok.
The electronics however was a bummer, the pots are crappy Korean made, and NOT USA made as the shop employee told me. After a month or so the pots started to make horrible scartching/cracking sounds while turning. I replaced them by placing the real pots (CTS brand, like G&L original) and now it`s fine.
The PC board is Korean to, but there is no real difference in components used in the G&L original or The Tribute, so this is not a thing to get worried about.
The body and neck are very wel made, no flaws at all.
Because of the problem with the pots i will not give it a high score.

This bass it made to play, it is very well build and will give you years of good old Fender-ish bass.
All hardware is of good quality, although it`s Korean made.
Every bold/screw is tight and straight placed.
The only flaw encountered are the pots, so "DO SOMETHING ABOUT THE POTS G&L!!"
It will give you a big bummer and cost you about 50 Dollars/ 45 EURO to get it fixed by a luthier, If youre not technical to do it yourself ( soldering, re-drilling the pots holes )

Never dealt whith them, so no opinion.
The dealer in Holland told me about the frequent broken pots-problem, so kudos for them.

If it was stolen or lost, i would buy a same or other Fender-like bass, e.g. precision/jazz/stingray.
It isn`t a "must" for me to get the same bass, although i like the L-2000 very, very much.